Shop By Car
 800-946-2642
Customer Reviews
Shop By Car
   Forum Width:     Forum Type: 

Found 60 Messages

Previous Set of Pages 1 | 2 | 3

 Posted: Jun 18, 2018 02:50PM
Total posts: 25
Last post: Jun 18, 2018
Member since:Apr 17, 2012
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Attitude. I got back after a month on other tasks, looked it over and in less than 10 minutes later it was laying on the floor. Fresh eyes.

 Posted: Jun 5, 2018 04:02PM
Total posts: 674
Last post: Aug 19, 2018
Member since:Aug 15, 2002
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
No need to be so formal, call me Jer.  What was holding up the radiator removal?

 

"To catch one, you need one"....John Cooper

 Posted: Jun 5, 2018 03:54PM
Total posts: 25
Last post: Jun 18, 2018
Member since:Apr 17, 2012
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Thanks crock7,

I'll see what my machinist thinks.

Casey

 Posted: Jun 5, 2018 03:50PM
 Edited:  Jun 5, 2018 05:05PM
Total posts: 674
Last post: Aug 19, 2018
Member since:Aug 15, 2002
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
The only reference to specs on 7.5" discs that I could find in my manuals was on run-out; .05MM or .002".  Nothing on minimum thickness.  But, the brake disc advert on the Mini Mania site says 8mm (.31") minimum rotor thickness (.375” when new). Hope that helps.

 

"To catch one, you need one"....John Cooper

 Posted: Jun 4, 2018 01:54PM
 Edited:  Jun 4, 2018 01:57PM
Total posts: 25
Last post: Jun 18, 2018
Member since:Apr 17, 2012
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Image Gallery
I'm back. Spent some time on the continent (US mainland) restoring my attitude. Ten minutes in I had the radiator out on the floor. We put a "Tropics" fan system on and they aren't as friendly when removing the radiator. But still a nice win. I got the brake rotors off but one needed the impact wrench set to 120 PSI. Now my machine shop wants to know the specs. This is where you're here. Where do I get specs for the standard 1964 7.5" S rotors? I just got my first rear wheel cylinder on. Those Cir clips are a stinker. My guru mentioned poor sizing standards on the new ones so I tuned up the angle of the dangle and 3 minutes later the first one is on. I'm going with a set of almost new shoes as it takes a week to get them here in Kona. I'm off to town right now to get some more blasting sand to make the rotors look as good as the reworked drums. Rotor Specs PLEASE.

 Posted: Apr 12, 2018 03:10PM
Total posts: 322
Last post: May 28, 2018
Member since:Jul 13, 2017
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Welcome back Low Gear. We haven’t met as I’m a novice, but you seem determined to get your Mini running again and it’s an interesting thread you have going. You’ve inspired me to dig deeper into my little trouble machine. Someone in its past was quite a bodger. Keep it up Low Gear, you’ll get there. Cheers, Derwood (aka Darren )

 Posted: Apr 9, 2018 11:28AM
Total posts: 674
Last post: Aug 19, 2018
Member since:Aug 15, 2002
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
Lower radiator support bracket bolt removed?  

 

"To catch one, you need one"....John Cooper

 Posted: Apr 9, 2018 01:55AM
Total posts: 25
Last post: Jun 18, 2018
Member since:Apr 17, 2012
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Thanks but something is going to have to move.

 Posted: Apr 8, 2018 09:29PM
Total posts: 1404
Last post: Jun 21, 2018
Member since:Oct 8, 2013
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
You need to scrape some skin and remove the fan first...........

Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch

 Posted: Apr 8, 2018 07:21PM
Total posts: 25
Last post: Jun 18, 2018
Member since:Apr 17, 2012
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Just getting around to pulling the radiator. I'm starting to think it can't be done on this car without moving the engine 1/2 inch to the right. It has one of those snazzy tropics fan blades. I've got every part disconnected from every other part and the only thing I can get out is the upper shroud. Anybody got some secrets?

 Posted: Nov 17, 2017 09:26AM
Total posts: 13550
Last post: Aug 16, 2018
Member since:Jan 22, 2003
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 381
WorkBench Posts: 1
CA

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Nov 11, 2017 06:41PM
Total posts: 25
Last post: Jun 18, 2018
Member since:Apr 17, 2012
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Hey, I got the other one to spit too. I've gone back in, on both, and got them working. I'v put new fuel lines on the list. The neat braided ones. Apparently they don't last forever. Only 53 years and they're already starting to have problems.

So I'm going with Doug L. that they are HS carbs. You know the left one, the lid, does have a brass seat for the needle valve. I guess I didn't remember seeing one on the right lid although the tops are different. The seals on the needles looked fine and both are metering fuel now.

Perhaps tomorrow is lift-off day.

 Posted: Nov 11, 2017 06:14PM
Total posts: 8722
Last post: Aug 20, 2018
Member since:Jun 5, 2000
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
Quote:
Originally Posted by LowGear
The right carb is spitting gas. Well after three cleanings it's still spitting gas. OK, not as much but I'm inside a garage. Needle valve looks good although I'm surprised there's no real seat for it. 
From your descriptions I think you have confused terminology.

Have we established if you have an HS or HIF carb?  I am guessing you have HS carbs which have the float bowl on the side of the carb body.  The float valve is in the LID of the float bowl.  It does have a seal.  It is either a conical metal tip on the moving part of the valve coming to rest in the fixed seat or a Viton/rubber tip on the same part coming to rest against the seat.  There are also aftermarket float valves that use ball bearings to make the seal.  

The needle that does not have a seat/seal is the metering/mixture needle on the bottom of the large vacuum piston.  

If you don't have a manual yet (Mini specific or for the carbs) visit the Burlen website and read through their tech articles on how the carbs work and how to adjust them.  Maybe start with the link below.
//sucarb.co.uk/technical-hs-type-carburetter-description-adjustments

Doug L.
 Posted: Nov 11, 2017 05:24PM
Total posts: 6616
Last post: Aug 15, 2018
Member since:Feb 26, 1999
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
those dial it fuel regulators diaphrams crap out and either harden and prevent fuel from flowing or rot and do nothing.  Open it, or replace it if you need one.

 Posted: Nov 11, 2017 03:00PM
Total posts: 25
Last post: Jun 18, 2018
Member since:Apr 17, 2012
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
I thought I'd like to hear it run again before putting it up on stands to pull the brakes apart. Maaannnnn, that's a strong odor of gasoline.

Yup. The right carb is spitting gas. Well after three cleanings it's still spitting gas. OK, not as much but I'm inside a garage. Needle valve looks good although I'm surprised there's no real seat for it. I'm thinking the $9 regulator I put in there 15 years ago to stop this very thing has gotten confused. I saw a really snazzy one at the SAMOA (Seattle Area Mini Owner's Association) reunion this summer that had a pressure gauge too. I wonder where I'd get one of those.

 Posted: Oct 23, 2017 04:07PM
Total posts: 58
Last post: Jun 28, 2018
Member since:Feb 12, 2013
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Mini City

 Posted: Oct 23, 2017 03:53AM
Total posts: 8722
Last post: Aug 20, 2018
Member since:Jun 5, 2000
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
Quote:
Originally Posted by LowGear
I can't find the second air cleaner housing wing nut and washer. Any ideas?
I made the ones on my car because the the ones that came on it seemed a tad bit short.

I would have to measure again but I think I took 1/2" diameter aluminum round stock and turned the OD down a few thousandths to fit through the holes in the air filter housing cover.  After cutting to the length I tapped both ends 1/4-20.  I took a long 1/4-20 set screw, applied Loctite to it and threaded it into one end of the aluminum rod.  That was followed by a flat washer more Loctite, and a 1/4-20 wing nut.  I believe that for the sealing washer I just got an appropriately sized nylon oil drain seal from the local parts store.  This has worked well for me for 15+ years.

Doug L.
 Posted: Oct 22, 2017 03:57PM
Total posts: 25
Last post: Jun 18, 2018
Member since:Apr 17, 2012
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Image Gallery
It's alive. I've heard it run. Video to follow on YouTube soon. I ran out of gas. New filter looks pretty clean after a cup or two.

I can't find the second air cleaner housing wing nut and washer. Any ideas?

 Posted: Oct 8, 2017 06:01PM
Total posts: 25
Last post: Jun 18, 2018
Member since:Apr 17, 2012
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Wow. Let me catch up.

It's a 1964 1275 Cooper S with dry suspension.

The brake booster was moved inside a long time ago.

The carbs were super cleaned by an expert on the mainland and haven't had two gallons of fuel ran through them. We did have problems with too much fuel pressure when we first fitted the Facet pump but put an adjustable regulator up in the engine compartment.

I'm returning the plastic bodied fuel filter because I just a bit concerned about broken stuff and gasoline leaked all over the boot. I like the glass filter systems too but we're back to the ghost of broken fuel parts in the boot. I play with small tractors and the glass bowels will also show you water in the fuel. Better to find it there rather than on a steep slope with an unconscious machine.

The rear wiper was easy. The triple front wiper whipped me and I went to a dual speed twin wiper with parking.

A couple of ideas that have come to me are A. neopreme wetsuit and II. bubblewrap. I'm concerned about heat though. I'd just lay it back there maybe zip tied to the battery anchor. I've mounted a few items with sections of garden hose and zip ties as well. I'll have a better idea of the limitations or hazards once the engine has ran for an hour or two and see if it's warm to the touch. It did go some 5000 miles just laying back there stuck in an inner tube.

 Posted: Oct 8, 2017 04:15PM
Total posts: 8722
Last post: Aug 20, 2018
Member since:Jun 5, 2000
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
Your picture shows an aftermarket Facet type pump.  They will be noisy, particularly when mounted on a flat metal panel.  The factory location for an electric pump is on the rear subframe below the LH fuel tank.  Some people mount the Facet pump there.  Some also adapt the "cotton reel" type exhaust pipe mounting isolators to keep the pump from being so noisy.

I have never used the metal filters supplied with the Facet pumps.  I have had good luck using the glass/metal filters available from the "bling" section of the local parts store.  Those filters use a replaceable plastic mesh screen to keep dirt out of the pump.  The glass body lets you see how much crud is in the filter so you know when to change the element.

As you work through replacing the hoses, I suggest you also check and see what pressure the fuel is AT the carbs.  Facet sells pumps in many pressure ranges.  The previous owner who installed the pump in your car may or may not have chosen the right one.  You want the pressure at the carbs to be close to 3 PSI at the MAX.

Doug L.

Found 60 Messages

Previous Set of Pages 1 | 2 | 3