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 Posted: Dec 21, 2016 08:04PM
kd
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CA
This is a Mini that is already in Montreal . Francois M aka John Deere just sold it to another Montrealer. It even has John Deere leaping deer stickers.

Keith & Deb

Avatar:Turn 1 at the Glen

 Posted: Dec 21, 2016 07:45PM
kd
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CA
TJ,
You are in Montreal? 
If you still need a heater send me an email.
Debbie
Mainly Minis Montreal.

[email protected]

Keith & Deb

Avatar:Turn 1 at the Glen

 Posted: Dec 21, 2016 06:45PM
 Edited:  Dec 21, 2016 07:55PM
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wow nice garage new kid, i notice you have two of everything, two lawnmowers, two ramps .  i like the mini shell up in the ceiling idea. i'm sure a lot of members here can relate, that back in the days when they were still so much addicted to minis, they do all sorts of things.
buy this ,buy that then after 20yrs or so ,the part that they bought  20y ago is still brand new in a box, then will sell in eBay cheap. One guy here tried to sell boxes and boxes and boxes of classic mini parts and when i commented that he is a hoarder, omg he went ballistic on me,he wants to break my bones..lol (go to search and write the word "hoarder" and you'll see his name.......anyway i'm just trying to analyze the life of a classic mini owner from beginning to end.....so far I'm having fun owning my mini.!!

 Posted: Dec 21, 2016 05:07PM
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Well then how about that. Right you are. I didn't think 1st gear wanted to slide that much down the shaft but with a few taps there she goes. Seems that sometimes its about knowing if something is supposed to come off before you start hitting.

Maybe you can help me with another one? I'm changing the bearings in the diff along with the final drive ratios; Tips on how to disassemble from here? I can only see the end of a shaft coming through the axle gear, no sign of a clip, drive pin, or anything that holds it together.

thanks.

 Posted: Dec 21, 2016 10:24AM
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You don't need to remove any gears to get the main shaft out, it's a bit of a fiddle sometimes but if all the planets line up it should just pull up and out. In that last picture your almost there, just push the 1st gear around a bit and it will come out.

Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch

 Posted: Dec 21, 2016 08:08AM
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Hey we're back! Been so long i could hardly find my old post.

After selling a few toys and a tractor we now have some money to continue.

We have put our mini shell into storage (on the ceiling) while we work on the drivetrain in the warm garage for the winter. We've just got the engine block back from the machine shop and itching to put things together.

However, we're pulling the trans appart to change bearings and I'm stuck. I managed with some help from other forum posts to get the nut off the main shaft by engaging gear 1 & 4 at the same time and getting the big bar on it, with heat, sweat and toil. But I'm this close now and i can't move the main shaft far enough either way to remove it. I think I need to remove what looks like 3rd gear from the shaft but not sure how. All i can see is 2 pin holes in the collar. I don't know if it requires a tool to unthread it, and where the threads actually are. Any tips would be appreciated.

thanks!
TJ

 Posted: Aug 14, 2016 06:31PM
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That return hose is "Just passing through" the inlet manifold. If you don't have a heated inlet manifold it goes straight to the lower radiator hose.

Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch

 Posted: Aug 14, 2016 06:07PM
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Thanks Dan
This is tons of good info. I'm getting the picture now and will also check out the used heater you mention. We have LHD too so the configuration is the same.
Where I'm still a little stuck is on the connection you mention of the return hose to the intake manifold. I don't seem to have this capability. Is it possible I am missing something here? We are hoping to install a dual carb setup that we recently purchased from contributor Spitz (see photo ). Any further details on this part of the puzzle would be extra helpful.

thx.
TJ

 Posted: Aug 14, 2016 08:51AM
 Edited:  Aug 14, 2016 09:15AM
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CA
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There should be plastic inlets behind the grille connected to flexible ductwork up under the wings (fenders). The duct on the right side of the car is larger because it feeds the heater. It has a large plastic elbow where it goes out through the inner wing. There should be 2 eyeball vents, one at each end of the dash. Behind them should be plastic fittings connected to openings in the firewall that open out into the wings. The fittings on the right should have a flexible duct leading down below the parcel shelf to the middle of the car.

The heater hangs below the parcel shelf in the middle of the car. Up where the parcel shelf meets the firewall are two metal hooks that the front end of the heater hangs on by bolts protruding from the corners of the heater. The back end of the heater (facing the passengers) is held up by screws into the underside of the parcel shelf edge, just below the switch panel. (It is set up this way so when the switches need to be accessed, the heater can be hinges down out of the way.)

At the bottom rear corners of the heater are two smaller duct connections - these flexible ducts run back up through the parcel shelf against the firewall to the demister vents - flattened funnels fastened to the dash rail below the windscreen.

The heater also needs hose connections from the engine. Mini shells are made for left or tight hand drive configuration, so have openings in the firewall cross-member to mount the master cylinders on either side. The unused pair of holes on the passenger side, are used to pass the heater hoses through the firewall. On the attached picture of my left-hand drive car, you can see the master cylinders in the top-right and one of the heater hoses on the bottom right coming up through the engine-steady bracket plate. It is the return hose, and connects to my alloy intake manifold.  (The smaller hoses are the crankcase vent connections.)

Edit: I have added a picture of a typical heater from our host's website. (Search "heater" and an offering of a used one comes up.)  I'm pretty sure this one would work for you.
This the view from the passenger compartment . On each side you can see the small duct connections for the demister vents. The control panel has a sliding knob that opens and closes the air control door - partway open sends air to the demisters; full open releases air to the floor area through a slot. There is also the on/off switch for the fan.
Above the control panel is the flange that is screwed to the parcel shelf to hold it up.
Behind the control door section is the rectangular housing for the heater core. The core is reversible - on a left-hand car, the hoses connect on the right. Vice-versa for a righty.
Behind the core section is the cylindrical fan section. Not: I'm not positive how the air inlet duct connects on right-hand car, but on a lefty, the duct connects on the right.

Edit again. Another picture from our host. On this one you can see the right-side connections, including the threaded rod that hooks up under the parcel shelf. 

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Aug 13, 2016 01:16PM
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Question on heaters;

We're just building a shopping list of engine related parts which will include rad & hoses. We need to add a heater core which will require hoses too. Since the car came from Egypt it never had a heater. It doesn't even have any ducts, just a couple of vents in the dash that are blanked off.

Can anyone point us to the right hoses and heater core for a 78 with a 1275cc? Also where does the heater core mount, etc? There is an exploded view of parts on this site but would be really nice to have a diagram if such a thing exists. Thanks in advance.

TJ

 Posted: Jul 31, 2016 02:20PM
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Yeah. We shovel up the bondo dust after it is about an inch deep. He started out with a mask, but it keeps coming off somehow. Got some fans moving the air through so its not so bad. He snapped one of me with a mask on. Am I good?

The close up is hard to follow but kinda shows the layers of filler. Quite amazing. Especially when the metal under it is solid!?!

Dirty job but it's going to feel good when its done.

TJ

 Posted: Jul 31, 2016 09:09AM
 Edited:  Jul 31, 2016 09:10AM
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CA
Good heavens! Is that a dirt floor or bondo dust?
Where's your son's dust mask? His lungs probably match the floor.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jul 30, 2016 01:43PM
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While the motor gets some love and attention at the machine shop we're getting into body work. What a job. 

I know bondo is cheap but its still no reason to generally lay it on 1/4" thick. This body is going to be a little smaller and a whole lot lighter when we're done. Pleasantly surprised though, how little rust. Subframes are solid.

Grind, sand, wire wheel, sandblast, and repeat, etc...

 Posted: Jul 19, 2016 07:55AM
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My son was digging through the layers of paint on the front fender. Very interesting. In places it seems to be almost 3/8" thick. Like rings of a tree you can see the age of the car and all the colors over the years. Looks like in 1983 it was purple.

 Posted: Jul 19, 2016 02:24AM
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Those top two photos look like pictures out of the TV show "Bones". 

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jul 18, 2016 12:53PM
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 Posted: Jul 11, 2016 07:16PM
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CA

There is an ass in every crowd…..not referring to the troll this time.

The 12g940 is the part number you're after.

You're doing some great investigative work on the engine, a good sign of what will probably be a great finished project

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Jul 11, 2016 10:56AM
 Edited:  Dec 23, 2016 05:00AM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by mini4ever
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newkid
And what a worn cam bearing looks like. 
Wow! That's one real bad scuffing right there!!!  The only cause of such deep scuffing is when the engine was allowed to run without oil.   Or the oil channels are blocked with oil impurities, that's it's wise to use engine cleaner once a year, just pour the entire content of the engine cleaner in the crank and let engine idle for 10 minutes, turn off engine and drain oil after one hour, this will clean engine thouroughly, removing gunks and all that,be sure to replace oil filter as well.

I tellya,negligence can cost big money.
So can listening to this guy's advice.

 Posted: Jul 10, 2016 01:33PM
 Edited:  Jul 10, 2016 01:43PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newkid
And what a worn cam bearing looks like. 
Wow! That's one real bad scuffing right there!!!  The only cause of such deep scuffing is when the engine was allowed to run without oil.   Or the oil channels are blocked with oil impurities, that's it's wise to use engine cleaner once a year, just pour the entire content of the engine cleaner in the crank and let engine idle for 10 minutes, turn off engine and drain oil after one hour, this will clean engine thouroughly, removing gunks and all that,be sure to replace oil filter as well.

I tellya,negligence can cost big money.

 Posted: Jul 10, 2016 01:21PM
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There are a few numbers on the head casting. The first one is at the rear. 

Found 86 Messages

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