Why so stingy with the grease?

Caught out on the springs bit...yes, there are two (2) to provide tension between the cover and the sliders.  No spring related to open close.

Cleaned up the bits & reassembled.


PHOTO set: shows the bits, cleaned up (wet/dry & Brake Clean), regrease with wheel bearing grease & reassembled. 

ah!, so the springs don't return the mechanism they act as sliders to hold the parts and provide some sliding friction

great photo, thanks

springs(2) work to prevent rattle, and provide a bit of friction, in an otherwise very loose mechanism.

It looks fantastic!  Keep up the good work and keep the pics coming.

Dogscarf!

So no metal strip style spring in here then:

Will look for 3M strip caulk.  Thanks!

No spring in the opening mechanism on the barn door on ROO the Aussie Window Van and none in the mechanism for LUCKY the Woody either.

Once unlocked, it is a simple twist to open, twist to close.

Rick:
Do you have the rear latch mechanism apart while it is off the car?
I would love to see how the internal spring is used is used and placed in the mechanism.
Terry

I am just now taking my first look at this thread. Nice work!!! On the issue Malsal raises of what to seal the wood to the body with, I have always used a product called 3M strip caulk. I think it is still available

I selected #6 Stainless pan head screws for the barn door wood - 19 needed per door (so 5 packs of 8 screws) - all but 2 are on the top & bottom rails & vertical upright.

RH barn door - with opening handle - needs 2 nutserts & Allen keyed 8 -32 Stainless screws.  Pre-drill wood with 1/4" holes (ensure not more depth than needed).

LH barn door needs four 8 - 32 nutserts & screws.

Only 18 1/4 -20 internal threaded nutserts & SS cap screws are needed for the install...74 8 -32 internal threaded nutserts are need for the install.  The E-Z LOK nutserts in the kit are not available in Canada.

Hi Rick, could snap a couple of photos of the insides of the barn doors? I am curious to see what the holes that the screws pass through look like.... 

Tick, tock...the needed brass nutserts & SS Allen key headed screws are on their way from California.

Note to Tagus/Ron - in later kits the difficult screw locations at the rear arches were replaced with studs.  Look to see if you have them.  If not, it is easy to cut down 1/4 - 20 SS cap screws to suit and Red Locktite them in place.

Have spoken to the body/paint man.  He can take LUCKY in 3 weeks...so Saturday, May 14th likely day to move the Mini.  He also welcomes me to his shop to offer the wood up as the body work goes along.

Extra Z-Z LOK nutserts & cap screws are on their way from California.  LUCKY will be ready to go for body & paint.

A few days off as we await the arrival of the additional E-Z LOK brass inserts & SS Allen keyed cap screws that are needed (made in USA, NOT available in Canada).

Odd because I found 1/4 - 20 inserts & cap screws here...but NOT ANY 8 - 32 inserts & cap screws.

NOTE:

Ken kept the Ash he trimmed off the rear uprights with the band saw.  Some bits were very useful to shim tenons when the mortises needed to be moved to address alignment issues.

The thin strips on the floor are the Ash removed from the uprights.

OK...BBQ on warming up at 8:10 pm for steaks the wifey was looking forward to tonight.

Glueing of the two sides DONE (except for the short uprights from the arches to the mid-rails).

Soon, I'll be able to take over and finish sand, shape the edeges and get ready for 'coating'.

(Ken is keeping the tools he modified to get the job done.  Will be quicker the next time.)

Very cool , nice that you have a woodworker doing the frame. Iam jealous Rick. Can I get first dibs on your wagon when your done, with it. Cheers

those wooden, wood clamps are really cool!

Will do Ron...but if yours is a later kit there may be fewer issues.

Wood bits getting some shaping & gluing together today - to fit the rear corner bumpers.  RH side B Pillar upright needs some thinning as it is visibly thicker than the LH side upright.

Progress being made!