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 LED bulb conversions

 Created by: Richard1
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 Posted: Nov 28, 2014 02:17PM
 Edited:  Nov 28, 2014 02:17PM
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US

There was an on going thread about this a bit ago. All of my "bulbs" except the alt/gen lamp in my car are LED. This thread gives some of the LEDs I used.

//www.minimania.com/msgThread/114432/1/1/LED_Tail_Lights

I may be able to find the list of Superbright part numbers I used. One thing I noticed on Richard 1's dash is the indicator position in the dash if you use a green LED they light up nice maybe a little too bright at night but you can actually see them during the day.

 

 

 Posted: Nov 28, 2014 12:10PM
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US

Honestly, I probably wouldn't buy it. I'm probably not speaking for the masses, but there are a lot of variables that go into LED's.

Also, I intend to make my own LED tails. Brakes, turns, reverse, and park

I would want to know the lumens and beam pattern of the bulbs so that the bulb accurately replaces the original one. A narrow beam pattern with high intensity and lumen count will make for a terrible blinker. I also don't particularly like the cluster type bulbs. They tend to be a cluster of cheaper LED's to compensate for the fact that the individual LED's are low output/low quality. Unfortunately, these are the most popular because they are cheap. And the company is going to want to make as much of a profit margin as they can. So they will likely buy cheap and sell high. Just my opinion.

 

 Posted: Nov 28, 2014 11:36AM
 Edited:  Nov 28, 2014 11:37AM
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Yes it would be great if womeone was to package it up, knowing all we need.

LED can make a big difference, and I've heard horror stories about some of the things sold on ebay, so I stay with superbright.com, that also has great descrpicions and options, as well as car/bulb selector, except for Minis.

This is the difference it made in the dash of my Corvair (actual difference is greater, as the camera adjusted for the low light of the original)

Tail lights also made a big difference, and since they are small, I wanted to be seen more by today's destracted drivers.

On this page I show the differences with the tail lights (and also the red bulbs I tried in the dash)

//www.widman.biz/Corvair/English/progress/small.html

 Posted: Nov 28, 2014 11:17AM
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CA

Wouldn't it be great if some "particular" Mini parts supplier in the US... California perhaps... were to develop a direct replacment kit for our vintage Mini's???... just saying...

 Posted: Nov 28, 2014 10:59AM
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US

Dan is right. The original flasher unit in your car is thermomechanical. Basically the resistive load supplied by incandescent bulbs causes the flasher unit to take longer between opening and closing. I could go pretty deep into how this works, but I don't think you really care about that. lol. What you do need to know is that LED's do not have the required resistance for a lot of flashers to function at all, and if you have enough of them, the operation won't be correct (i.e. too fast). The simplest fix for this (on a basic system) is to just replace the old flasher with an electronic one. The electronic flasher doesn't rely on that resistive load to trigger. It's got a circuit board that triggers the pulse and thus you can run your low load LED's with no problem. This is what I do on my Mini and I recommend it to everyone else. Heck, I recommend doing it on any car, really. Fatigue is the biggest killer of flashers and it's significantly reduced on an electronic unit. I don't know the intricacies of all minis, but my MkIV is a 2 prong flasher unit. Yours is likely the same. You can pick up an electronic flasher at nearly any automotive store.

Having a wired in resistor is usually used to fool modern electronic systems that measure line load to tell if a bulb is blown. These are the systems that warn you with a "bulb out" type warning. But unless you've seriously upgraded your mini, I don't think you've got a problem.

 Posted: Nov 28, 2014 09:16AM
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When fitting LED bulbs in exterior light fixtures, make sure to verify that the end result is actually brighter, and more effective than the incandescent bulb being replaced.

Some LED tail light bulbs don't properly line up the light source with the reflector's focal point.

In some cases, the running light is very bright, actually almost too bright, like brake light brightness, which can be confusing for following traffic. With some others, the brake light is too dim (even if the running light is bright).

Just make sure your source has a good return policy, and confirm their effect in your own car (have a friend operate the brake pedal) before the return limit comes up.

Norm

 Posted: Nov 28, 2014 07:44AM
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CA

I'm not sure if this applies to LED installs, but many vehicles come with basic flasher units that depend on the amount of current flowing to bulbs for the appropriate flash rate. This is why, when one bulb fails, the flasher either flashes very quickly or just doesn't flash. The solution is to replace it with a heavy-duty one that flashes at a constant rate no matter what the load is on it.

The ad you linked to says:

"6 Ohm, 50 Watt load resistor kit. Solves most LED turn signal problems. Connect one across each LED turn signal bulb to simulate filament Tail/Turn signal bulbs. Use the age2Disp=/flashers.htm">Flasher Selection Guide to determine the correct Flasher Relay for your vehicle."

If the LED units are rated for 12V and you have a heavy-duty type flasher (probably like the Corvair has) I don't think you'd need the resistors, though 4 out of 5 dentists might disagree.

 

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Nov 28, 2014 06:16AM
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US

I used LED bulbs from SuperBrightLEDS for my Corvair and want to do the same on the Mini. They work fine and flash perfectly on it.

The order page for the bulbs says some cars need a resistor kit to flash properly. Has anyone done this, and does the Mark V Mini wiring/flasher need these. If so, does it need four (one for each bulb)?

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/car-install-supplies/tail-light-load-resistor-kit/190/831/

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