Oil pressure gauge tubing routing
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Oct 3, 2020 03:05PM | RogerOtto | |
Oct 3, 2020 02:33PM | croc7 | |
Oct 3, 2020 12:03PM | RogerOtto | |
Dec 7, 2014 07:01PM | spectre1275 | |
Oct 14, 2014 04:34AM | helpmymini | |
Oct 12, 2014 06:11PM | tmsmith | |
Oct 7, 2014 06:43AM | malsal | |
Oct 7, 2014 06:31AM | racingflea | |
Oct 6, 2014 06:28PM | DRMINI | |
Oct 6, 2014 04:12PM | jeg | Edited: Oct 6, 2014 04:13PM |
Oct 6, 2014 01:38PM | tmsmith | |
Oct 5, 2014 04:51PM | mur | |
Oct 5, 2014 02:23PM | cobradave66 | |
Oct 5, 2014 01:57PM | malsal | |
Oct 5, 2014 01:09PM | Cup Cake | Edited: Oct 5, 2014 02:53PM |
Oct 5, 2014 09:05AM | cobradave66 | |
Oct 5, 2014 08:56AM | mur | |
Oct 5, 2014 05:38AM | cobradave66 |
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Question is which speedo opening?
in my picture am I using the proper routing?
1966 Austin Cooper S
LHD, WET, Personal Export
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Before I found this topic I was able to “force fit” the metal oil pressure gauge tubing
through the large hole in the white binnacle to the left of the speedo.
is this the correct hole?
there is also a smaller hole w/ grommet.
does anything go through this hole?
1966 Austin Cooper S
LHD, WET, Personal Export
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Is there anything between the pipe and the gauge? My hard pipe from our host came with a small metal cose shaped thing on the pipe, at the end that would go into the rubber hose (which would the go into another hard line on its way to the block).
Is this cone shaped thing supposed to be taken off that end, and put at the nut end, between the hard pipe and gauge nipple? Or should it be hard pipe to gauge, and tightes down the nut?
The cone shaped thing snugs inside the hard pipe via a small cup in the pipe, but is too big to sit similarly in the gauge nipple.
Thoughts?
scott
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I have the hard line which is what I plan on using. did it originally run through the large speedometer opening in the firewall or somewhere else. there is a 1" hole in the tray underneath the gauge and a smaller hole adjacent in the firewall. this seems the most direct route but will mean I have to remove the fitting that screws into the block. Is that a simple soldering job or more involved? thanks, DavidDavid
The original ones consisted of two hard lines one was attached to the gauge and the other to the block a rubber line joined the two pieces that ran beside the block under the engine steady bar to allow for flexing, there is no need to remove the ends with this set up. The gauge end of the pipe came out of the one of the small holes under the speedo hole if memory serves me correctly.
The gauge end hard pipe went through the big `speedo hole' on Australian built Cooper and Cooper S. I think the UK ones did too, as the bits we used were imported.
They may have Kevin maybe i was thinking of the choke and heater cable holes, its been a while since i have seen an early correct set up.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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how long is the copper tubing and what size (inner and outer diameter)? the po used a ceap plastic/nylon hose on my car
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I have the hard line which is what I plan on using. did it originally run through the large speedometer opening in the firewall or somewhere else. there is a 1" hole in the tray underneath the gauge and a smaller hole adjacent in the firewall. this seems the most direct route but will mean I have to remove the fitting that screws into the block. Is that a simple soldering job or more involved? thanks, DavidDavid
The original ones consisted of two hard lines one was attached to the gauge and the other to the block a rubber line joined the two pieces that ran beside the block under the engine steady bar to allow for flexing, there is no need to remove the ends with this set up. The gauge end of the pipe came out of the one of the small holes under the speedo hole if memory serves me correctly.
The gauge end hard pipe went through the big `speedo hole' on Australian built Cooper and Cooper S. I think the UK ones did too, as the bits we used were imported.
Kevin G
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I've got the braided line and what I've done to avoid chafing is use cable ties to hold short lengths of vinyl electrical wire sleeve that I slit and fit over the braid. It's not the prettiest, but it's been like this since 2003 without any problems.
The peasants are revolting...
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I have replaced mine with the braided version, but as Mur says they will "saw" away at almost anything.
And they are almost too long.
But as one who has had the rubber style tubing break twice, I am not sure I would trust the rubber tubing available today. I am guessing somebody has a silicon equivalent of something that small.
Terry
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Do you have a printed copy of a mini parts catalogue? I find the online catalogues pretty weak, and manuals tend not to give parts breakdowns. One of the catalogues printed in the eighties might be helpful.
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thanks so much. It's so difficult finding these "insignificant" details. I'll never buy another car in buckets and boxes again!!!! I know I'll have a lot more questions as the car comes together. again, I really do appreciate the help. David
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I have the hard line which is what I plan on using. did it originally run through the large speedometer opening in the firewall or somewhere else. there is a 1" hole in the tray underneath the gauge and a smaller hole adjacent in the firewall. this seems the most direct route but will mean I have to remove the fitting that screws into the block. Is that a simple soldering job or more involved? thanks, DavidDavid
The original ones consisted of two hard lines one was attached to the gauge and the other to the block a rubber line joined the two pieces that ran beside the block under the engine steady bar to allow for flexing, there is no need to remove the ends with this set up. The gauge end of the pipe came out of the one of the small holes under the speedo hole if memory serves me correctly.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Here's the pipe on the engine Mur mentions. It needs to be bent to shape. I once tried to solder a copper oil pipe into a brass fitting. It didn't work. I think you need silver solder and oxy-acetylene torch.
//www.minimania.com/part/CAM4202/Oil-Pressure-Pipe-Oil-Block-12-Plus-Fitting
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I have the hard line which is what I plan on using. did it originally run through the large speedometer opening in the firewall or somewhere else. there is a 1" hole in the tray underneath the gauge and a smaller hole adjacent in the firewall. this seems the most direct route but will mean I have to remove the fitting that screws into the block. Is that a simple soldering job or more involved? thanks, DavidDavid
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I like the original hard lines fitted to the block, rubber from block to firewall and then hard line to the gauge. MG midgets had a better quality flex line. Plastic lines that come with new gauges at parts stores are very fragile. Steel braided lines are popular but can wear through any wire they touch, and they are hard to route because of the large radius bends they need. You want the shortest route possible, you want the line fastened often, you want it to not touch anything that can harm it or it can harm. Braided line will also remove paint where it travels past the speedometer hole and around to the gauge. Running it straight into the gauge through a hole in the firewall with a grommet is an idea, but makes assembly very tedious.
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What is the proper way to route the tubing from the oil pressure gauge to the engine bay? thanks, David