Timken or non-genuine wheel bearings?
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Also a quick note on Mini ball joints. Never set them tight as they will snap and the results can be devastating. Nylon ball joints are also available out of Japan and require no shimming.
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Plus 1 on that. Just follow Haynes.
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Also a quick note on Mini ball joints. Never set them tight as they will snap and the results can be devastating. Nylon ball joints are also available out of Japan and require no shimming.
Utter tripe I'm afraid - please don't do this boys & girls, it's not the way it's done on a Mini.
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In fact, Honda civic even specifies 134 lb-ft of force on their 32mm spindle nut.
So while I think your advice is well-meaning, I think it is very dangerous to follow.
To each his/her own, but I question your qualifications and your description of "forcing the grease out" is most suspect.
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Also a quick note on Mini ball joints. Never set them tight as they will snap and the results can be devastating. Nylon ball joints are also available out of Japan and require no shimming.
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well, thats the way american cars have been doing it since... well long before I was born. The hard part for the mini is getting the correct preload and lining up the hole for the cotter pin. I had to use a thicker washer to provide the proper preload and line up the hole. You will need to adjust things a bit with thicker/thinner washers to get it right with no spacers.
Not the right way but it works. dan
"I don't know much, but what I do know, I know little of "
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When I stripped down each hub and cleaned them up I found that I have different bearings each side. Drivers side has Timken 07087X, marked England with no spacers, but the passenger side has Timken NP548549, but one is marked England and the other marked Canada. Strange. I'm no expert, but I can't imagine the two on the passenger side are a matched set!
This is the first time I've tackled wheel bearings, so I'm nervous about selecting the right sort. I've read other forum posts which mention that the spacer helps to avoid over tightening, so if you use the non-spacer bearings then you just have to be careful when torquing down and 'feel' your way to ensure they do not bind. Can anyone advise?
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The non-gen ones may need modifying to get the proper pre-load at the specified torque.
All but one of the last 10 I've fitted locked solid before the torque wrench clicked, indicating that the spacer is too thin.
Having seen what happened when one of the Chinese knock-offs catastrophically failed and locked a rear wheel (while in a contra-flow on the motorway) I would suggest you reconsider and ask yourself if saving a few dollars is worth smashing your car up.
Genuine are available for less than $69.95 and I believe our hosts have a price-promise.
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Many thanks for all your replies. Unfortunately I cannot reuse the bearings on the drivers side because when I removed the hub from the stub, the inner bearing and seal stayed on the stub and I needed to use a hub puller to get it off, ruining the bearing race in the process. The passenger side came off OK, so I suppose I could clean and repack those ones and replace the drivers side for new. I'll go for the less expensive non-generic ones.
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The only problem Ive had with the inexpensive version is fitment issues. One set I installed last week had too much preload when torqued to spec. Not too big of a deal really, either add round arbor shims to get the proper preload or just tighten the nut to a given rolling resistance. Any cotter pin alignment issues can be corrected by swapping the washer with a different thickness one. Been discussed on here before.
Either way works. dan
"I don't know much, but what I do know, I know little of "
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If you can find Unipart GHK1548 rear kits, they are/were pretty cheap (from Minispares) and the tapered roller bearings therein are Timkens. I've not looked to see if our host carries these....
Kevin G
1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.
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Tapered roller bearings at the rear are a bit of overkill IMHO. Mini rear ends are very lightly loaded.
The rear bearings curently in my car came off a spare shell that was hanging out behind one of my mates sheds. I was checking things before heading off to a hill climb and decided the rear bearings were a bit past it. So we striped a set off a "parts" car. I think I've had something like another 25 years use out of those old bearings....
If you don't want to shell out for the Timkens you shouldn't have any trouble getting good quality ball bearings (as was originally fitted) available from non Mini specialists...
Cheers, Ian
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I've encountered a few disasters with some of the el-cheapo non-gen bearings, including one which effectively exploded and destroyed the stub axle.
If they need replacing, fit the Genuine Timken ones.
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Agreed, if the existing Timken bearings can be fit for reuse...repack, install, no issue.
[Note Mini Spares (UK) sells both Timken...and the non-genuine items at a much lower price.]
We had one of the finest local restored to original Mini Cooper S get serviced with new rear wheel bearings. One set failed within 100 miles the 1st day and the 2nd set at the end of the 1st day <200 miles.
You gets what you pays for...and if it doesn't work, you must answer the question, "Did I get what I paid for?"
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If they're not bad don't replace
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I think I know the answer to this one, but I am replacing my rear wheel bearings (tapered roller) and am comparing timken bearings from Mini Mania at $69.95 to cheaper sub-$20 ones at
Mini Sport USA. My car is not a racer, just a lightly used Mk1. Has anyone had
bad experinces with the cheap ones? Sorry if this has been covered before.
1964 Mk1 S replica