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 Posted: Jun 1, 2012 05:33AM
Total posts: 397
Last post: Sep 27, 2018
Member since:Jul 29, 2008
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US

and one more for luck

some new cars, 99 disco II, 88 jag xj40, 76 cadilac de ville 500c.i. (8.2l), 74 450sl, 69 lotus 7, 61 countryman (restoration)

the best view is always from the point of no return

 Posted: Jun 1, 2012 05:19AM
Total posts: 397
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US

with the governor in the throttle fully open position

some new cars, 99 disco II, 88 jag xj40, 76 cadilac de ville 500c.i. (8.2l), 74 450sl, 69 lotus 7, 61 countryman (restoration)

the best view is always from the point of no return

 Posted: Jun 1, 2012 05:17AM
Total posts: 397
Last post: Sep 27, 2018
Member since:Jul 29, 2008
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US

possibly 2 more better pics Tongue out

showing the rod to the valve block and the arm from the carb governor rod

some new cars, 99 disco II, 88 jag xj40, 76 cadilac de ville 500c.i. (8.2l), 74 450sl, 69 lotus 7, 61 countryman (restoration)

the best view is always from the point of no return

 Posted: Jun 1, 2012 05:09AM
Total posts: 397
Last post: Sep 27, 2018
Member since:Jul 29, 2008
Cars in Garage: 1
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US

as Kevin says if its not the simple stuff di you make sure the linkage on the inside of the box to the governor in the front cover was connected correctly?

some new cars, 99 disco II, 88 jag xj40, 76 cadilac de ville 500c.i. (8.2l), 74 450sl, 69 lotus 7, 61 countryman (restoration)

the best view is always from the point of no return

 Posted: May 31, 2012 08:52PM
 Edited:  May 31, 2012 08:54PM
Total posts: 7
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Member since:Jan 15, 2012
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Ok. So I finally had some time to tinker with some things on the mini, and after all that it still isn't shifting. :(

I removed the front access panel on the gearbox and removed the valve block. It looked fine to me, as there were nothing clogging any of the passages or passthrough holes. And the small pistons inside moved freely. After sealing that plate back together, road testing proved to not fix my auto shifting problem.

I then adjusted the governer rod linkage per the instructions in the jpegs Barri sent me. The result from setting that rod linkage changed nothing. It still doesnt shift automatically, but I can shift manually from 1st to 2nd to 3rd. Then shifting to D will rev the engine very high, as if it is in 1st gear. I then adjusted the linkage in both directions one turn at a time, and neither direction seemed to help.

I do not yet have a pressure gauge but I will try to get one this weekend and see if I have the proper pressures.

So basically after adjusting the shifting linkage, governer linkage and checking the valve body, I have made no progress towards automatic shifting :(

On a side note, my speedometer is not currently working. The cable seems to still be connected at the back of the speedometer and seems to be connected to the gearbox. I couldn't reach down to check that connection until the engine cooled down. Maybe it is useful or just something else not going my way.

Any other ideas?

 

-TJ

 

 Posted: May 26, 2012 09:52PM
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The link rod from the governor to the valve block is probably not located properly at the governor end.
I just refitted a forward clutch to one of these and it is tricky ensuring the rod locates as you push the end cover/governor/oil pump assembly back in. It took me a few goes.
I found it helpful for someone to watch from next to the main valve block, and apply finger pressure to guide the rod into the governor.

Kevin G

1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.

 Posted: May 26, 2012 09:39PM
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email sent

they are from the original workshop manual. Mine has no park and yours probably does but other than that the set up is pretty much the same.

good luck

Barri

some new cars, 99 disco II, 88 jag xj40, 76 cadilac de ville 500c.i. (8.2l), 74 450sl, 69 lotus 7, 61 countryman (restoration)

the best view is always from the point of no return

 Posted: May 26, 2012 09:13PM
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Thanks for the quick response! I'm going to try and fiddle with the mini later, perhaps Monday or Tuesday. I have played with the shift linkage at the gearbox quite alot. When I first re-fitted the engine, I had no reverse. I adjusted the linkage until all the gears were on the right location at the shifter.I torqued down the center nut on the torque converter to 112 ft-lbs as per the Haynes manual. What book were those page scans out of? And can you email me the jpegs so that I can save larger versions of them? My email is tjw998(at)gmail(d0t)com

 

 Posted: May 26, 2012 08:55PM
Total posts: 397
Last post: Sep 27, 2018
Member since:Jul 29, 2008
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If you need to clean out the valve block it can be done with the engine in the car and just remove the front plate. First thing though if its not the cable linkage is to just double check that your torque converter is on tight and not leaking at the carnk joint and that you have adequate pressure in the autobox system. this picture for pressure testing carries on from the first one above

some new cars, 99 disco II, 88 jag xj40, 76 cadilac de ville 500c.i. (8.2l), 74 450sl, 69 lotus 7, 61 countryman (restoration)

the best view is always from the point of no return

 Posted: May 26, 2012 08:49PM
Total posts: 397
Last post: Sep 27, 2018
Member since:Jul 29, 2008
Cars in Garage: 1
Photos: 107
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US

and the fault finding chart

some new cars, 99 disco II, 88 jag xj40, 76 cadilac de ville 500c.i. (8.2l), 74 450sl, 69 lotus 7, 61 countryman (restoration)

the best view is always from the point of no return

 Posted: May 26, 2012 08:49PM
Total posts: 397
Last post: Sep 27, 2018
Member since:Jul 29, 2008
Cars in Garage: 1
Photos: 107
WorkBench Posts: 1
US

There is no kickdown cable as such, the kickdown is controlled by a rod from the back of the carburettor to the governor on the gearbox. It is more likely that you have not set the shifter linkage correctly or possibly that you have some air, or debris in the valve block. I have instructions for both which can be done in the car but cant figure out how to post bigger jpegs. I hope these are good enough if not I have saved them and can email them to you.

some new cars, 99 disco II, 88 jag xj40, 76 cadilac de ville 500c.i. (8.2l), 74 450sl, 69 lotus 7, 61 countryman (restoration)

the best view is always from the point of no return

 Posted: May 26, 2012 07:08PM
Total posts: 7
Last post: Feb 23, 2013
Member since:Jan 15, 2012
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Hello all.

I know that many of you aren't auto-mini people, but I don't know where else to turn.

 

I have a '77 mini automatic 998 with some shifting problems. It all started after I finished re-gasketing the engine and gearbox. Once I dropped the engine back into the mini, and reconnected everything, I fired it up and re-adjusting the timing. Once it was running smoothly, I shifted into reverse, and backed out of the garage. Put it into "D" and drove away. Turns out that it doesn't want to shift out of 1st gear by itself. I am able to shift manualy from Neutral to 1st to 2nd to 3rd just fine. If I then shift from 3rd to "D", then it revs very higl like I am down shifting into 1st.

I posted a simiar post over at auto-mini-register, but have gotten no responses in about a week and a half.

Does anyone have any ideas as to why my gearbox isn't shifting automatically? I feel like it might be the kickdown cable needs adjusting, because it is acting like it is 'kicked-down' all the time.

Thanks,

-TJ

Austin, TX

 

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