How-to Replace a Crank Pulley on a Gen 1 MINI Cooper S

Crank Pulley Replacement, Gen 1 MINI Cooper S

TRANSCRIPTION

Hi guys it's Brendan from Mini Mania again, and we are again at Ryan GMW down in Auburn California.  And today we are going to replace a harmonic balancer on a Cooper S. If you follow along will show you the steps involved in doing just that thing. Part number will be down in the description below so take a look down in the more info section comment sections everything else and we'll show you how to install and to remove and then install a harmonic fan.

 So this is actually our aftermarket balancer and the part number will be below and we're going to do that right now over in here. So in order to get at that part of the engine you have to remove right front wheel and other things but start with the right front wheel other things namely, the liner one up there one screw okay and and another under, there everywhere. You'll know when it doesn't want to come out it is probably still attached somewhere. There's a balancer by the way, you now have access or use our tool up here, and pin the tensioner, so we can remove the belt. The belts just being tucked away now, inspected it and its going to be replaced most likely.

All right, 15 millimeter on the crank pulley, blue locktight on a 15 millimeter bolt, it looked easy with a thousand-pound gun but that bolts very tight, going back on 85 foot-pounds. Was that 150 Newton meters so whatever that whatever, whatever that converts. You're just going to kind of use more like a generic type puller yeah, I'm going to show you how to do it with a generic one because you probably don't want to buy the factory made one. This is a standard three jaw harmonic balancer puller, this is part of the factory mini tool that lengthens the stud. You can use any bolt that has the same thread pitch as the crank bolt. If you're really creative you could use the crank bolt, don't want to damage the threads. We're going to use M6x10 bolts, thread into the bouncer, use three of those just to let people know that it's possible to do it without the factory tool, my tools in for service because it got bent. So the threads pulled out of it trying to get one out so yeah they can be very stubborn. Make sure that all your, it's nice and flat against the, that's a breaker bar so there's lots of leverage you can get on that lots of torque, twisting the bolt into the crank.

So once that bottoms out the puller will start working, there it goes, so going to try to rotate that may have to try to hold the puller keep the crank from turning it's a very large very large pipe wrench, pair of channellocks yeah, its almost off here, that should be uh, there you go. That's so you can see, see the backside here with all this shiny you can see there where I was cutting into the the timing cover all the way around. I can see that yeah. there's some rub marks and so here you can actually see the balancer pulled away this should be one solid piece oh yeah. Yeah so there you go, there you go, that's what's wrong with the rubber, is totally gone, nothing, supposed to be vulcanized together or whatever and this has a very distinct nasty smell yeah slipping and burning, so she definitely heard that, yeah she towed it in for this. Yeah, that will free spin this pulley around here which is the belt staying still while this spins inside of it, alternator lay supercharger not building boost, this car was overheating because the water pump wasn't turning through the blower, that's what you get. P1688 fault code. Okay it can be present for boost plausibility because the blower is not turning even though the engine is. The motor doesn't know what to make of that, it thinks it has a bad supercharger, you just really have a bad tensioner, I mean a bad bouncer not spinning yeah. That puller worked like a charm, yeah it really did, it came right off, absolutely yeah seems fairly painless.  

We had mentioned actually, but this is an R53 this is a gen 1 Cooper S, this particular one happens to be a convertible. Yeah getting there we just we got a cock holes in there and we're just going to see if we can suck it on to the, in there the heating helped it a little bit that didn't get it all the way on so we're going to try to set it on the bowl. So you got it enough now that you can put the factory bolt in and then and drive it home, drive it home okay. Tied it down, pull it back out like we were just kind of using, this it's we had different spacers on it we used a socket we use stuff and now it's on, now you have a nice gap here clearing the timing cover, before that was grinding into there, it was just coming apart and going back towards the block. And that is how it's done