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relax
Total Posts: 21
Last Post: 08-10-08
Member Since: 01-07-08
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Thank you for all the replies. sorry for the belated reply, I still need some time to check everything, I will give you guys an update on Monday. Thanks again, Gary
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kerr
Total Posts:
Last Post: 08-29-08
Member Since: 03-13-00
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that's a good point (distributor, "point", get it?!)
being an electronic distributor on that model of mini I am not too familiar with what could go wrong to cause that. But, logically, maybe the return spring on the vacuum advance broke or something? A careful study of his distributor is definitely in order!
I would still check everything else too, since it is a new car to him and a thorough "going over" will help him avoid chasing his tail in circles as much as possible.
Gary, keep us posted!
Norm
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Cup Cake
Total Posts: 5254
Last Post: 08-29-08
Member Since: 05-13-01
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Kerr, the mixture would have to be off a mile for it to not run at all. As a long shot there could be something physically wrong (damaged or broken)with the distributer.
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kerr
Total Posts:
Last Post: 08-29-08
Member Since: 03-13-00
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the switch on the thermostat housing is for switching on and off the vacuum (for both the distributor advance, and for the charcoal vapor cannister) so that the vacuum is only applied to those two after the engine has warmed up.
But none of these things will cause your engine to die.
You said that your engine runs fine with the vacuum hose open, but will die when it is plugged into the switch. This sounds like your carb is adjusted too rich and the open vacuum is leaning it out enough so it will run.
My recommendation, whenever confronted by a newly purchased vehicle with a combination of strange factors like this, is to assume that all the adjustments are wrong, and go back to the basics (lord knows what kind of whacky adjustments the previous owner might have done to the poor thing):
- set the valve clearances
- confirm the ignition timing
- adjust the carburetor to the "initial setting" (take the dashpot off and adjust the jet to 2 turns down from flush)
- hook up the vacuum lines correctly (and also confirm that the throttle and choke cables have appropriate slack when "off")
then, with all of these basics set, adjust from there.
I predict that the hose came off, and the previous owner just richened up the mixture until it would run like that, without correcting the disconnected hose, and not only will doing the above solve your issue but will also make you much more familiar with your new car.
Unless there is something unique to an automatic transmission mini (I don't know anything about A/T cars), in which case someone else may chime in with more suggestions.
Norm
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Cup Cake
Total Posts: 5254
Last Post: 08-29-08
Member Since: 05-13-01
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If it runs OK without the vacuum line attached to the distributer you could just plug the vacuum port off and run it that way. What is the static spark advance timing? What is the switch on the thermostat housing for??
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relax
Total Posts: 21
Last Post: 08-10-08
Member Since: 01-07-08
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Dear all the mini experts, My name is Gary, and I am currently living in upstate NY. I registered at minimania a while ago, and have been reading posts since then. This is my first time to create a post., and I really appreciate if someone could help me out. I purchased a 1978/93 mini SPRITE, 1275cc, automatic 6 months ago. There has been problems with the exhaust pipe (leaking smokes at the joint between the manifold and pipe), but recently I got another problem. I have a 1275 with a switch on the thermostat housing, and whenever I attach the vacuum line that supplies the distributor, the car will idle, but dies if I give it any throttle at all when warm. Can anyone help me with the problem and explain to me why it happens? The carb doesn't seem to mind the open vacuum pipe, and doesn't mind the pipr being closed. Its the distributor line that doesn't want vacuum.? I would be greatly appreciate if someone could help and explain to me why it is happening. Thank you. Gary
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