Check that the castellated nut is not bottoming on the drive flange, saw some flanges awhile back that required me to knock the back corners off the nut, so that it would go in deep enough to contact the tapered washer. It seems that different manufacturers of flanges make that opening just a tad small.

Terry 

If you're not on the edge............ you're taking up to much space.

Another thought is that the bearing inner race has spun on the axle, it will cut its own groove on the CV axle and this cannot be tightened out.  The outer race can also spin in the hub casting causing play, check all this stuff out too.

thanks for the info guys .time to go to work I guess. sounds like it is probably the flange as the nut seems to bottom out on the threads definitly loose bearings ball joints are ok. Also recently replaplaced and shimed. Will check that tapered washer isn't binding and bearings are still ok. Always something just reuilt engine a few weeks ago thanks agian

Sorry kelley Had to send this

Nothing wrong with double the information (as long as it agrees with me ;^)

It occured to me while I was reading Spank's post, that the looseness you feel could be the ball joints. Have someone push on the brake pedal and see if the looseness disappears. If it doesn't it's the ball joints.

Cheers,

Kelley

"If you can afford the car, you can afford the manual..."

Front drum or disc brakes?  You say "slop", does that mean you can wiggle wheel when jacked up grabbing at 12 and 6 o'clock and 3 and 9 o'clock?  If this the drive flange may be shot....

Tell us a little more.

Relax Kelley, I had to nip out to the story half way in very short post - did not see Spank's comprehensive notes that went up in the interval...

Mini friends!  Mini rides!

Restored/modified Mini 1000 with 1380cc power unit, 2.95:1 FD, adj. suspension, S discs/drums, 10x5 Minilites, 165x70 A008s, custom trim and matching custom trailer.

One possible cause is that your cv joint stub, which acts as an axle and is what your wheel bearings ride on, could be worn and now narrower in diameter than the bearings. But you should still be able to tighten it up and feel like the play is out except when a lot of force or weight is on it.

The most likely scenario is the spacer in your matched bearing set is too thick for the spacer that is cast into your hub. Many people will suggest that you get a new hub. The bearings are supposed to be a matched set with a spacer of the appropriate thickness is supplied in the kit to fit the factory quoted tollerances in the hub w/ spacer cast in.

What I like to do when I'm replacing bearings or rebuilding old hubs (and this doesn't mean that it is THE right way, just one way that so far works for me) is to clean all of the grease out of the bearings and fit them up with the supplied spacer and a cv and drive flange withOUT seals and torque it up to spec and check how smoothly it rolls. If it's too tight for my taste, I offer up a different spacer that is a thou or 2 thicker or if it's too loose I put in a thinner spacer (I keep all of the old spacers I pull out). When I'm happy with the bearing feel, I grease everything up and put in the seals and refit.

There are simple things to check --like torque up the cv nut with the tapered washer removed and a thick flat washer in there to make sure everything is seated before the final torque up with the tapered washer. Also make sure you are not taking up all of the available threads on the cv and bottoming out because the drive flange is worn and is sucking on too far.

--Spank

edit: took me a while to get my post up-- sorry for doubling up on kelley's info 

If it was wear on the spacer the bearings would lock up rather than be loose. It could be the bearings breaking up but you would notice a roughness when rotating the wheel. Be sure to check for wear on the drive flange. Check the inner face of the drive flange for a slight lip.

It's also possible that the tapered washer on the outside of the drive flange is hanging up. The usual technique is to leave out the tapered washer and initially tighten the hub nut with a large flat washer in place. Once tightened, remove the hub nut and the large flat washer and replace it with the tapered washer and retightened.

Cheers,

Kelley

"If you can afford the car, you can afford the manual..."

I'm having a problem with my passenger side axle and hub Assy. thought I'd post a quick note before tearing into it to see if it is a common problem. Maybe one of you knows what is causing it. about a year ago in the original restoration we replaced all the wheel bearings and races the races fit tightly in the hub like they should. what is happening is that the slop can not be tightened out of the passenger side even with the axle nut tightened as far as it will go there  is a considerable amount of play. Wondering if a worn axle is causing this or maybe if the spacer that fits around the axle between the bearings has something to do with it. Thanks for you comments