No problem with the carpet as, at least in a MK1,it does not cover the center rail in the car....

Bart

That's the same thing I did on the Elf.
Years ago when we were all still teenagers, one of my brothers friends was helping to take the interior out of the car. Having sat and twiddled the ratchet for 10 minutes he then asked how long it normally takes to remove a bolt... We thought he'd nearly finished all four seat brackets, but he'd actually only been doing up the one ! I welded the bracket on.

The important lesson here is about time & place. There is a time and a place to use airtools...

Metric is for people who can't do fractions.

doesn't sound like an issue to me, my MG has always had a loose nut on each of the seat bolts (the welded nuts came off years and years ago).

Welding the seat track to the floor like you are thinking, would make it hard to install and remove the carpet, wouldn't it?

Norm

Not too concerned about other issues, I had taken the floor pan and supports down to metal earlier and so no stress issues or rust. Two of the seat capture nuts had previously been welded in and, when I used a air tool to tighten the seat back in, the capture nut pulled out when I cross threaded the bolt into the capture nut.

When I had the seats redone, I removed the front bolt and replaced with a carriage bolt & lock nut setup, so I'm considering having the non-mobile, "mobile" welder weld the bottom piece of the seat, the part which has the 2 bolts go through, directly onto the floor frame. This should resolve the strength issue as well as save future aggrevation with the same thing happening. I can still remove the seat by undoing the carriage bolt set up on that side. Opinions?

Bart

If the cross member is thin-n-crispy enough for the whole thing to pull out, along with strips of metal, be prepared for some baaaad news...

Metric is for people who can't do fractions.

Gosh, don't let that get you down, My 6k mile JCW works rover mini was missing one nut when it came to me from Scotland, Just drill a hole in the back of the cross member and put in a large washer and nut, OR if you don't want to drill that large of a hole, put in a thickish strip of metal to act as a washer, as the strip will be narrow it will fit through the hole.

Peter

No more cars left, Westpaminis is now just a memory, Good luck to all those hard working dealers left out there, We can tell you its not easy. We have fully enjoyed meeting all the fine folks we have in the business.

You known, just when everything looks like its coming together, ever notice how something always POPS up?

Finally finished redoing the interior, carpets, seat covers, repaint, etc... went to reinstall the seats in my Mk1 and, while tightenin' the bolts, ripped out the capture nut and surrounding metal on one of the inserts in the center! Of course it was the last bolt, driver's seat....

So I called the "mobile welder" who told me he couldn't come over for at least 2 weeks, because his mobile welder was taken apart.. Doesn't sound mobile to me! Anyway, tells me to drive the car over to him on Saturday and he'd work on it... (Of course, I'm assuming he CAN fix it!)

Now, I have to reinstall (partially) the drivers seat, drive it down there, take the seat out while he works his magic.... reinstall it, drive it home, take the seat out, remove the carpets, repaint the welded area, let it set overnight and then replace the carpet, seat, etc...

So much for a weekend "Show and Shine"!

Thanks for letting me vent!

Bart