engine mounts w/ captive nuts

TOPIC:

engine mounts w/ captive nuts

Created by: BRG Mini

Orig. Posting Date	User Name	Edit Date	Msg No.
May-14-2008 08:24PM	Spitz		840039
May-14-2008 03:11PM	BRG Mini		839985
May-14-2008 03:04PM	partsguy1		839984
May-14-2008 02:47PM	Dean2		839977
May-14-2008 02:20PM	Alex		839973
May-14-2008 09:49AM	BRG Mini		839913
May-14-2008 08:49AM	kerr		839906
May-14-2008 08:34AM	Swift Justice		839900
May-14-2008 04:30AM	joltfreak		839836
May-14-2008 02:56AM	1963S		839819
May-14-2008 02:45AM	37Driver		839817
May-14-2008 01:57AM	Isleblue65		839815
May-13-2008 09:55PM	mur		839809
May-13-2008 06:50PM	Cheleker		839772
May-13-2008 06:38PM	JSG		839766
May-13-2008 05:11PM	Hunter2		839746
May-13-2008 04:43PM	wrenchhead		839741
May-13-2008 04:35PM	tvanderh		839739
May-13-2008 04:22PM	BRG Mini		839734

Found 19 Messages				Page 1 of 1:
Found 19 Messages				1

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Spitz
Total Posts:	6169
Last Post:	07-23-08
User Since:	01-22-03

Posted: May-14-2008 08:24PM

Ditto on the original type...easy peasy.

Now...the automatic unit is a different story...the right side is a real beeatch!

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BRG Mini
Total Posts:	5657
Last Post:	07-22-08
User Since:	04-13-03

Posted: May-14-2008 03:11PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by partsguy1

............. lay a little piece of paper towel over the box end of your combination wrench, then push the Hex Head of the bolt in the paper towel....... that locks the bolt to the wrench, makes it super easy to reach in and locate the bolt.

See, it's little tips and tricks like this that make hanging out here ROCK!

I'm buying new (normal) mounts.

willy

partsguy1
Total Posts:	1822
Last Post:	07-23-08
User Since:	11-01-03

Posted: May-14-2008 03:04PM

Yeah, I'm a bolts through the inside, nuts on outside kinda guy as well.

Little trick Marcel showed me ............. lay a little piece of paper towel over the box end of your combination wrench, then push the Hex Head of the bolt in the paper towel....... that locks the bolt to the wrench, makes it super easy to reach in and locate the bolt.

Always nice to learn little tricks like that.

Terry

If your not on the edge............ your taking up to much space.

Dean2
Total Posts:	2231
Last Post:	07-23-08
User Since:	12-07-00

Posted: May-14-2008 02:47PM

Standard mounts, bolts down for me, too. I was amazed at how much easier they are to put in. With the bolts down, I found it pretty easy to get a short wrench on the heads. I've got a MkIV and always pull the radiator off when pulling and replacing the power unit.

The problem with the captive nut variety, as far as I could tell, was that there is a small amount of the nut sticking through to the outer side, adding some width. Also, the captive nut material isn't great and strips pretty easily. When I tried them, I ended up stripping two and therefore going through the PIA of putting bolts on top of them.

Finally, if you take the captive nuts out, the hole is larger than the hole in the subframe and the bolt. Using them that way would allow for some movement and would probably be VERY BAD for the bolts.

Thanks to the Interstate Highway System, it is now possible to travel from coast to coast without seeing anything.
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Alex
Total Posts:	5530
Last Post:	07-22-08
User Since:	03-24-99

Posted: May-14-2008 02:20PM

I refuse to use captive nuts, and insist on putting the bolts downwards for safety reasons.

I was timed last month when I put the new engine in, and it took almost exactly 8 minutes to align and do up the non-gen engine mounts...

Metric is for people who can't do fractions.

BRG Mini
Total Posts:	5657
Last Post:	07-22-08
User Since:	04-13-03

Posted: May-14-2008 09:49AM

Thanks for the info. Everything is kinda what I remembered, just comes down to one's personal experience. I guess there's always the option or reusing the old ones, they didn't look bad. But then it's one of those things where you should replace when you have the chance.

I think I'll give it a try, and if it doesn't work, I'll try punching out the inserts and use regular bolts per mur's method. Anyone have any info on whether the captive nuts can work loose? They're not welded, but I guess since they're angled, it's unlikely to work loose?

willy

kerr
Total Posts:
Last Post:	07-22-08
User Since:	03-13-00

Posted: May-14-2008 08:49AM

if any mounts give you trouble lining up, just leave the engine weight pressing down on them overnight, and then try again the next day with "seasoned" mounts and William is your father's brother.

minis have a tougher time that most cars in this respect because our mounts are angled into a kind of a wedge, making their springy shape a big factor in fitting new ones, so the above pre-compression is recommended.

Norm

Swift Justice
Total Posts:	3532
Last Post:	07-23-08
User Since:	01-04-02

Posted: May-14-2008 08:34AM

I used original Rover OEM mounts in Rosie II, the only way to go. You have to fiddle with them either way. although its easier with the subbie out of the car.

Steve

Life is driving Minis. Everything else is just waiting.

joltfreak
Total Posts:	1107
Last Post:	07-23-08
User Since:	10-09-03

Posted: May-14-2008 04:30AM

i used the style that had the nuts welded to the back and they were fine execpt for one hole which was a bugger to line up.

1963S
Total Posts:	382
Last Post:	07-22-08
User Since:	09-21-06

Posted: May-14-2008 02:56AM

Either are a pain in the neck... and both are usuable. Use whatever you have, but.

If you have a choice, IMHO, the original style are a bit easier.

Cheers, Ian

37Driver
Total Posts:	29
Last Post:	05-28-08
User Since:	03-21-08

Posted: May-14-2008 02:45AM

I must be the luckiest guy around. They worked like a charm for me.

Isleblue65
Total Posts:	1749
Last Post:	07-23-08
User Since:	02-09-02

Posted: May-14-2008 01:57AM

My current set of mounts has the captive nuts. Yes, they were a headache to get the bolts started initially(I had to use probes and heel bars to align the holes) but now that they've settled in, it falls right into place whenever I remove and replace the motor.

I replaced the original mounts some years ago, and remember trying to get a wrench up on top of the mounts with little to no success. I think I ended up using a nut splitter to bust the nut off, and that was when I decided that captive nuts were the way to go.

"I drive a Mini. What are you compensating for?"

mur
Total Posts:	2717
Last Post:	07-23-08
User Since:	11-12-99

Posted: May-13-2008 09:55PM

I too always use original mounts. I also place the bolts through from the inside, the idea is that even if the nut rattles loose, the bolt will then have to fall up to get out. Just drop the engine in, sneak the driveshafts into place and then wiggle slightly to get the mounts at about the right spot, then align the hole with a punch and slide the cleaned up 5/16" unf bolt through, adding a spring washer and then the nut.

easy

Peasy

Cheleker
Total Posts:	7478
Last Post:	07-23-08
User Since:	12-03-02

Posted: May-13-2008 06:50PM

I'm firmly in the camp of those that use the "factory" mounts.

JSG
Total Posts:	244
Last Post:	06-25-08
User Since:	06-03-99

Posted: May-13-2008 06:38PM

I'm with wrenchhead, I always weld my nuts!

Hunter2
Total Posts:	1694
Last Post:	07-23-08
User Since:	11-02-06

Posted: May-13-2008 05:11PM

DOH...go for the captive nuts. Use a tapered punch to line up as power unit is lowered. Bob's your uncle (he's not mine).

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Restored/modified Mini 1000 with 1380cc power unit, 2.95:1 FD, adj. suspension, S discs/drums, 10x5 Minilites, 165x70 A008s, custom trim and matching custom trailer.

wrenchhead
Total Posts:	713
Last Post:	07-15-08
User Since:	07-06-03

Posted: May-13-2008 04:43PM

A good trick is to spot weld the nuts to the back side of the mount,works ok for me.almost impossible to get a wrench on the back nut even with a special wrench i bent just for this.

http://austinmini.ositech.net/Hosting/WrenchHead/wrenchhead.htm

1996 silverbullet limited edition @ tim's aka (wrenchhead on MM board) year-to-date progress > photos > see photos here: http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g251/pologround/test/Silverbullet%20mini/

tvanderh
Total Posts:	707
Last Post:	07-23-08
User Since:	08-21-05

Posted: May-13-2008 04:35PM

IMHO toss them as far as you can throw them. They wouldn't work for me and I ordered the rover mounts and they dropped right in. I couldn't see a difference between the two as to why they wouldn't fit but I fought them for a couple hours before tossing them. Not worth the hassle for the little cost difference. Todd

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BRG Mini
Total Posts:	5657
Last Post:	07-22-08
User Since:	04-13-03

Posted: May-13-2008 04:22PM

While waiting for my engine to be rebuilt, I decided to go through my box of parts to see what I still need to order. I found a set of engine mounts with the captive nuts and I remember some people were saying they aren't worth the trouble because it's hard to align with the holes in the subframe. Should I buy a normal pair?

Looks like these captive nuts could work loose, too. Anybody want to share their experience with these?

willy

Found 19 Messages

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