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Mini Mania Spotlight Mini Cooper Part-NME1053
5/8" EXTENDED SPARK PLUG SOCKET - BMW MINI COOPER & S 02-06
Use this six point 5/8" deep well spark plug socket to reach the spark plugs on your BMW MINI Cooper & S.

3/8" drive, 5" long, and equipped with the expected rubber insert.

This tool will
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Timing Troubles. Need Some Help
TOPIC:  

Timing Troubles. Need Some Help

    Created by: 66coop
Orig. Posting Date User Name Edit Date Msg No.
May-09-2008 03:37AM 1963S   838918
May-07-2008 06:13AM 66coop   838614
May-07-2008 05:14AM Dean2   838605
May-07-2008 04:20AM 1963S   838595
May-06-2008 05:02PM pixieracing   838531
May-06-2008 04:52PM 66coop   838530
May-06-2008 03:51PM emcguy   838511
May-06-2008 12:46PM pixieracing   838484
May-06-2008 11:39AM 66coop   838478
May-06-2008 10:51AM pixieracing   838470
May-06-2008 06:40AM 66coop Edited: May-06-2008 08:12AM   838403
May-06-2008 06:26AM Headstay   838401
May-06-2008 06:24AM 66coop   838399

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Click Image for More Information MIRROR COVER REPLCMNT TAKE-OFF RIGHT - MINI COOPER & S 02-06
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Click Image for More Information MIRROR COVER REPLACEMENT TAKE-OFF - MINI COOPER & S 02-06
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Click Image for More Information GROUND STRAP CHROME CAP COVERS (2)_ MINI COOPER & S 02-06
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1963S
Total Posts:331
Last Post:05-14-08
User Since:09-21-06

Posted: May-09-2008 03:37AM Reply

As with the cam timing, the spark timing is easily set up. There is no fixed physical orientation of the dizzie rotor as it depends on how the dizzie drive is installed in the block. While there is a "correct" orientation (larger segment of the drive mechanism pointing to 11 oclock) it doesn't really matter. The only real effect this correct orientation has is a neater plug lead layout - and maybe a neater lead for the vac advance line.

Now install the dizzie and set the engine with No1 at TDC on the compression stroke. Rotate the dizzie clockwise until the points close, then anticlockwise until the points just open. Where ever the rotor cap points IS the No 1 plug lead. Count off the rest in an anti clockwise direction in the order 1342. When the drive mechanism is set up as recommended No1 will point at 1 oclock.

Cheers, Ian

66coop
Total Posts:
Last Post:05-08-08
User Since:07-26-00

Posted: May-07-2008 06:13AM Reply

Thanks. I get how the dots line up and all as I ahve built another motor but i guess I was confused due the wording in my manual. I was trying to get the dots lined up, #1 at TDC and the indicator on the crank pully to all line up and I guess that really isnt the case. Being that the cam and crank are keyed there is only one way to put them back together. The dots do line up when the #4 is TDC so I guess all is well. I will pull it, and when it come times to reinstall it, spin whichever so that the dots line up OR just mark it how it is and do it that way.

One thing though, Anyone have a diagram of the dizzy cap with the cylinder #'s on it? #1 is the one pointing up (12 oclockish) right? 

Dean2
Total Posts:2128
Last Post:05-15-08
User Since:12-07-00

Posted: May-07-2008 05:14AM Reply

Ian, you're not imagining things.  There was a thread on this a while back.  The answer given by CTR, who's built more than a few engines, was that they line up at #4 tdc (or tdc on #1's exhaust stroke).

Thanks to the Interstate Highway System, it is now possible to travel from coast to coast without seeing anything.
Charles Kuralt

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1963S
Total Posts:331
Last Post:05-14-08
User Since:09-21-06

Posted: May-07-2008 04:20AM Reply

I don't have an FI Mini but I suspect the basics don't change much.

You really can't put a Mini timing together back to front as long as you follow the dot to dot rule. The way the flywheel, crank and crank pulley are keyed means they only go together one way. So bung it together then turn the crank so the dot on the bottom pulley is on an imaginary line joining the centreline of the crank and the cam (because the cam is at the back of the motor the dot won't be straight up - more like about one oclock).

The cam pulley is keyed to the cam so, again, it only goes on one way. Install the cam so the pulley dot is adjacent to the crank dot (on the same imaginary line between the centres). If the timing chain is one link out the dots will be quite noticeably misaligned so its REALLY obvious if that you have it wrong.

As has been pointed out - if you rotate the crank 360 deg (from the position in your photo) No1 will be back at TDC and your dots will line up (one crank rotation = 1/2 cam rotation). I think I have heard it said that when the dots are aligned then No 4 is at TDC on compression - but maybe I imagined it - no matter, its pretty well irrelevant.

I have an adjustable cam drive but having set up the cam timing once, I marked the inner and outer parts of the cam pulley so no, during a rebuild, I just set it dot to dot and the cam timing is perfect.

On a clockwork car, setting the timing is equally simple and fool proof - but I can't help with your electrickery.

Cheers, Ian

pixieracing
Total Posts:404
Last Post:05-16-08
User Since:02-15-03

Posted: May-06-2008 05:02PM Reply

 yes put it back the same way

66coop
Total Posts:
Last Post:05-08-08
User Since:07-26-00

Posted: May-06-2008 04:52PM Reply

Ok. I mean, the car is running and I am 100% that the car is at TDC. I watch the cylinder to double check and move it ever so slowely to make sure.

So, when I take it down, Should i just mark it as it sits and rebuild back to the way it is.

Thanks for all the help everyone. 

emcguy
Total Posts:73
Last Post:05-12-08
User Since:10-13-06

Posted: May-06-2008 03:51PM Reply

I agree w/pixieracing - you are fine.  The small gear rotates twice for every single revolution of the large gear.  I ran into the exact same issue when I did my timing cover seal.  If you rotate the crank, you will eventually see the 2 dots line up just as they are supposed to.  In my case, I was pretty sure I was at TDC, and my dots were still 180 deg out for some reason.  Maybe it was put together that way at the factory.  As long as the dots line up at some point as they pass by each other, everything is OK.

1981 Mini, 998cc , Stage 1

pixieracing
Total Posts:404
Last Post:05-16-08
User Since:02-15-03

Posted: May-06-2008 12:46PM Reply

 yes the dot should be up tdc the top cam gear should have the dot facing down and aligned up with the crank gear dot ,  however  sounds like some one put it togheter  back aswards  or your not at tdc ,  I would put it back the way you got it and not worry , it will not run if the gears are out a few teeth  let alone 180 deg .  so I susect the main gear is wrong or your not at tdc   rotate the crank  360 and if the dots line up your ok to go and you were not at tdc .

66coop
Total Posts:
Last Post:05-08-08
User Since:07-26-00

Posted: May-06-2008 11:39AM Reply

Gotcha on the oil. I want to pull the head anyway up it really was only that little amount that came out so it might only be a little water got in there. There is no signs of white when I pulled the rocker cover.

Onto the timing. If the timing (cam) was that far out of sync, would the car even run? My brother has had the car for a few years now over in Germany and it seemed to run very well. A little more lumpy then mine but it is an SI with 1.5's and some head work. Just so I am 100% and not losing my mind, the motor is at TDC when the #1 cylinder (timing chain side) has both valves completely shut and loose. Looking thru the plug hole, getting the piston to its absolute highest point. At this point the rotor on the dizzy is pointing straight up. Oh and the crank key (ie dot on lower timing gear) is straight up. That is TDC right? 

pixieracing
Total Posts:404
Last Post:05-16-08
User Since:02-15-03

Posted: May-06-2008 10:51AM Reply

white foam in the oil can just be condesation , we you drive if the engine does not get hot enough or the breather is pluged  the mosture that gets n the oil is not evaporated off .   creating  a white looking oil , you can change the oil and rinse out the block with a quart of cheep oil,  fill it up with good quality 30-40 or so ( i use mobile 1  )  and run for a bit, if after 200 miles the white is back  on the rocker cover inside or oil cap than you may have a leaking  haed gasket . if its clean in 200 miles  then its  condesaton, I would recomend you change the oil sooner in that case , the picture looks like the top gear is 180 degrees out  the two  marks should line up at the top of the lower gear.    you can mark it and try to line up the bottom gear  to the top gear  ,  the timming chain does not have  a dot only  the two gears do   and they align up together , we do not care about the chain position only that  the bottom gear  dot should be   stright up when at tdc  and the cam gear dot at the bottom opposate the dot on the drive gear on the crank.   

66coop
Total Posts:
Last Post:05-08-08
User Since:07-26-00

Posted: May-06-2008 06:40AM
Edited:  May-06-2008 08:12AM
Reply

I am totaly checking my head gasket next. I have had a feeling that it is bad. Cant wait to see what it all looks like in there.

Thanks

Headstay
Total Posts:9130
Last Post:05-14-08
User Since:04-13-02

Posted: May-06-2008 06:26AM Reply

Can't help with timing, but water in oil is often caused by a bad or blown head gasket.

 

Sail & Drive Fast! Live Slow! Billy Backstay Laughing

66coop
Total Posts:
Last Post:05-08-08
User Since:07-26-00

Posted: May-06-2008 06:24AM Reply

Trying to replace the timing assembly gaskets to hopefully cure a pretty bad leak and ran into a problem. Seems like there is something wrong with my timing. The car runs fin (I guess) but when I line up the timing marks and set to TDC, the dots on the the timing chain do not line up. This is an SPI motor with the indicators on the timing cover and a notch in the pulley. You can see in the picture that the dots on the timing chain are way out of wack. Should I just mark how it lines up now and assemble it the same way or what? Would this mean that the cam (in therory) was not timed right? The car does run fine and seems to pull pretty good.

Also, can someone tell me the firing order on the distributor and which plug goes where. At TDC currently the rotor is pointing straight up. This is going by the Hayens manual saying that the #1 cylinder is the one closest to the timing chain. That is correct right? I just got myself all sorts of confused.

All pictures are at TDC of cylinder #1 (timing side) 

Oh, also there seemed to be a little bit of white ooze that came out of the timing cover breather indicating water in the oil, Where should i look for the leak?

Thanks a lot all! 

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