Posted: May-04-2008 04:16PM

I make a habit of changing the fluids for all hydraulic system regularly. 

I flush the old fluids and then replenish. For the initial bleed I run a tube from the bleed screw to the fluid reservoir and pump until no bubbles. This is always the firmest pedal and I can never duplicate with other methods.

Posted: May-04-2008 03:39PM

I bled the clutch at the auto hobby shop yesterday.  Unfortunately, the bleeding tool they had didn't fit the the valve.  I had the guy at the shop help me, and as I've never bled a clutch before, he used the pump it up and open the bleeder method.  It solved the problem, but I'm still afraid there's a leak.  Air wouldn't just appear in the lines would it? 

On a sadder note, sometime throughout the day, I misplaced my Haynes manual    Hopefully it'll turn up.  

Posted: May-03-2008 07:49AM

If you leave the spring on a pre-verto slave and use the tube in fluid method, the clutch is easy to bleed by yourself. I have an EZ Bleed I use for most brake systems, but I usually don't bother taking the time to set it up for just the clutch.

Avoid the pump it up and open the bleeder method for Mini brakes and clutches. Slow and steady works better.

Posted: May-02-2008 07:47PM

you will need a 7/16 spanner (if memory serves), a transparent bottle and 2 or 3 ft of transparent tube that is big enough to fit on the slave's bleeder. fill part of the bottle with dot3 and be sure the end of the tube is always under the fluid level. if you have help, ask for someone to press the clutch 3 time and hold the pedal pressed. (if you're doing it alone, you'll need a stick long enough to push the clutch pedal with one end and then wedge the other end underneath the steering wheel to hold the clutch pressed.) then you open the bleeder, fluid will flow in the tube pushing air out at the same time. close the bleeder, release the clutch and start over till no air comes out of the slave.

either you have a leak somewhere, or your master and/or slave is on its way... keep the bleeding kit in the car in case it happens again.   

you can change the master and the slave without pulling the engine. the hardest bit is wiggling yourself underneath the steering wheel to pull the pin that attach the master to the clutch pedal.

cheers!
 

{ mart. }
Garage Physics 101 - If something is flat, crap will grow on it.

Shirts for the Corporate Masochists

Posted: May-02-2008 07:26PM

Also, if there was a sudden leak/rupture, is it possible to replace the master and slave cylinders without pulling the engine? I'm not the most handy person with a wrench, and even though they've got mechanics who you can "rent" to help you out here, it's a daunting prospect. Would it be easier to limp over to a shop and pay someone to do it?

Oh, because I know someone will ask, it's a 1995 Cooper 1.3i, with the Verto clutch (as far as I can tell).

Thanks