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Posted: May-04-2008 08:44AM
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If you have any vinyl pinstripes or other graphics applied to the top of the paint use some blue painters tape to cover them up from being buffed as they will get damaged. Use the tape to cover up tricky things like emblems and wiper arm shafts and if this is your first time I would also suggest that you run a line of tape along your door edges to prevent damage that can occur from inexperience.
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| bluedragon |
| Total Posts: | 503 |
| Last Post: | 05-15-08 |
| User Since: | 01-28-05 |
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Posted: May-04-2008 04:01AM
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If you haven't already, and don't have a person live to offer advice - go to an autobody supply shop (not a parts store, but a store that specializes in selling automotive paint and supplies to body shops) and ask them their advice on a product to use. They should be able to suggest a polish/compound that is best for the resources you have, and the condition of your paint.
DLY
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| ddavidv |
| Total Posts: | 1018 |
| Last Post: | 05-16-08 |
| User Since: | 10-31-04 |
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Posted: May-04-2008 03:11AM
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I guessed right.  Unless you own a buffer and know how to use it, I'd suggest seeking out a qualified auto detailer to buff and wax it for you. Doing it by hand is a long, painful process. Avoiding it is worth the money it costs to have a pro do it. BUT, if you want to do it yourself, I've had good success with using Mother's brand cleaner/wax. One of my business customers had a fleet of Ford Rangers in red that were single stage, and they used this exclusively, finding it the best to keep Ford's lousy paint shiny. Worked on my Ranger too! I also used it on our old Jetta, same story with the red. With red, it's very fade prone, so you will have to keep after it to maintain a shine. Use only soap intended for washing cars, not household dish washing liquid.
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| Cheese~ |
| Total Posts: | 3035 |
| Last Post: | 05-16-08 |
| User Since: | 06-25-01 |
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Posted: May-03-2008 11:03AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by morris1k Hello thank you all for your suggestions, i am going to try somthing this weekend and i will let you all know what happens. The car is red according to the BMW page it does not have a clear coat. I have never done this before so we will see what kind of damage i do! thanks again |
Good. Then you have a fighting chance. Prez, Mini Owners of America, Los Angeles Early Registration deadline for MMW2008 has been extended through May 31! Get those registrations in now! On June 1st the price goes up by $25. Mini Meet West 2008, Irvine California, June 26-29 For info, please visit us at www.minimeetwest2008.com or at www.moalachat.com. Hope to see you in 08!
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| rotbox |
| Total Posts: | 2257 |
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Posted: May-03-2008 08:38AM
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You can start out in the middle of panel and use some fine paste on a damp cloth to get a feel for how things go, staying of the edges is the key.
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| morris1k |
| Total Posts: | 175 |
| Last Post: | 05-03-08 |
| User Since: | 07-03-00 |
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Posted: May-03-2008 06:43AM
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Hello thank you all for your suggestions, i am going to try somthing this weekend and i will let you all know what happens. The car is red according to the BMW page it does not have a clear coat. I have never done this before so we will see what kind of damage i do! thanks again
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| Cheese~ |
| Total Posts: | 3035 |
| Last Post: | 05-16-08 |
| User Since: | 06-25-01 |
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Posted: May-03-2008 06:43AM
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Again, buffing will do you no good unless the damage is in the clear coat or if the car has a single stage paint job. FYI... If the damage is in the clear coat, the color of the vehicle will often appear yellowed or slightly 'milky'. If the problem is in the base coat, the car will still look shiny, but the color will seem less vibrant. I may not be an expert on engine installation, identifying odd micro cars, or many of the other skills people have around here. But I am an expert auto detailer. R Prez, Mini Owners of America, Los Angeles Early Registration deadline for MMW2008 has been extended through May 31! Get those registrations in now! On June 1st the price goes up by $25. Mini Meet West 2008, Irvine California, June 26-29 For info, please visit us at www.minimeetwest2008.com or at www.moalachat.com. Hope to see you in 08!
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| ddavidv |
| Total Posts: | 1018 |
| Last Post: | 05-16-08 |
| User Since: | 10-31-04 |
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Posted: May-03-2008 06:31AM
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What color is it? If it's red, BMW did not use clear on them until possibly after your car was built.
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| rotbox |
| Total Posts: | 2257 |
| Last Post: | 05-13-08 |
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Posted: May-03-2008 05:58AM
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I belive these were clear coated. The clear coat is what provides the gloss, the base coat has no shine, it only provides the color. If you have ever done base/clear you know this. Get a buffer with a dampened foam pad with very fine compound used for color coats, NAPA or any auto body supply should provide. Do some practice buffing and let the pad do the work. STAY OFF THE EDGES or SCULPTOR lines because you can cut through without much problem. You should be able to bring up a decent shine as long as the surface it not cracked or severely damaged, same goes for non clear coat finish. Wax as suggested when finished.
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| Cheese~ |
| Total Posts: | 3035 |
| Last Post: | 05-16-08 |
| User Since: | 06-25-01 |
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Posted: May-02-2008 05:18PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Isleblue65 Use a finishing compound with an orbital buffer and sponge pad on the buffer. Wet the car first and always move the buffer (never hold it in one place or you can burn through the paint). It takes a little bit of practice, but as long as you take your time and use a good quality finishing compound such as 3M (not cheap auto parts store rubbing compounds), you will have good results. You are trying to cut through the old dead oxidized layer of paint and expose the good paint underneath. You definitely need a buffing machine for this job. Follow up with a wash and then a good quality wax. I use Zaino. It is by far the best polymer paint treatment on the market. Expensive and time consuming to apply, but the results last well over a year and nothing produces a deeper shine than Zaino. |
None of this will help one bit for faded paint under a clear coat. If it was scratches and swirls we were talking about, you would be spot on with your recommendation however! But I do agree with you about Zaino! That stuff rocks. R Prez, Mini Owners of America, Los Angeles Early Registration deadline for MMW2008 has been extended through May 31! Get those registrations in now! On June 1st the price goes up by $25. Mini Meet West 2008, Irvine California, June 26-29 For info, please visit us at www.minimeetwest2008.com or at www.moalachat.com. Hope to see you in 08!
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| Cheese~ |
| Total Posts: | 3035 |
| Last Post: | 05-16-08 |
| User Since: | 06-25-01 |
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Posted: May-02-2008 05:15PM
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If the car has a clear coat, there is nothing you can to to revitalize the color. The pigmented layer is beneath a layer of clear paint. Unless you buff away the clear coat (which I would not recommend), you will never touch the damaged color layer. If the car is not clear coated, you can try to polish away the faded top layer of paint in hopes that there is undamaged paint beneath. The problem here is that this job is labor intensive. Plus you risk the chance of buffing right through the thin factory paint if you don't know what you are doing. R~ a pro detailer Prez, Mini Owners of America, Los Angeles Early Registration deadline for MMW2008 has been extended through May 31! Get those registrations in now! On June 1st the price goes up by $25. Mini Meet West 2008, Irvine California, June 26-29 For info, please visit us at www.minimeetwest2008.com or at www.moalachat.com. Hope to see you in 08!
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| Isleblue65 |
| Total Posts: | 1687 |
| Last Post: | 05-16-08 |
| User Since: | 02-09-02 |
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Posted: May-02-2008 05:09PM
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Use a finishing compound with an orbital buffer and sponge pad on the buffer. Wet the car first and always move the buffer (never hold it in one place or you can burn through the paint). It takes a little bit of practice, but as long as you take your time and use a good quality finishing compound such as 3M (not cheap auto parts store rubbing compounds), you will have good results. You are trying to cut through the old dead oxidized layer of paint and expose the good paint underneath. You definitely need a buffing machine for this job. Follow up with a wash and then a good quality wax. I use Zaino. It is by far the best polymer paint treatment on the market. Expensive and time consuming to apply, but the results last well over a year and nothing produces a deeper shine than Zaino. "I drive a Mini. What are you compensating for?" 
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| morris1k |
| Total Posts: | 175 |
| Last Post: | 05-03-08 |
| User Since: | 07-03-00 |
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Posted: May-02-2008 03:11PM
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Hello all! I need some help from the expert paint detailers on this page. I purchased a 1991 bmw 318 a few months ago to drive to work. The paint is faded compared to the paint in the door jams. Is there a way or a product i can buy to revitalise the paint ? I think the car has a clear coat but im not sure? Will some kind of wax work or does it just need a new paint job ? Thanks in advance for your advice...
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