hello everyone

I have just tried the "beer can" treatment on the nylon cup and its still sizzling like a "insert nasty word here"

 now I may have done this wrong, I placed the can shimmer UNDER the nylon cup to rase it up a fraction but not on the sides....

 should I wrap the aluminum around the inside of the cup>? sorry for all the silly questions but this rattle is really getting on my wick! and I dont want to put any undue vibration down on my new gear box.......

 

hello everyone

I have just tried the "beer can" treatment on the nylon cup and its still sizzling like a "insert nasty word here"

 now I may have donr this wring, I placed the can shimmer UNDER the nylon cup to rase it up a fraction but not on the sides.... should I wrap the aluminum aroun the cup>? sorry for all the silly questions but this rattle is really getting on my wick!....

 

Dave,  I read your post below about having the "older" style remote shifter and so I'm assuming you mean the 1st generation that doesn't have the nylon flange above the shifter arm ball. (see link below)

http://www.minimania.com/web/like/y/item/22G292/invDetail.cfm

If it does then you can try replacing that too. It holds the ball firmly into the housing eliminating the up-down movement of the ball which can make a nasty noise too. If not maybe you can find a newer style 2nd generation housing and upgrade. I figure there's always a reason for it when old designs are replaced with newer ones.  I think Pixieracing or Smurf has one listed in one of their for sale posts.    dan 

"I don't know much, but what I do know I know little of "

Dan, I'll order a new spring, as I've just replaced both the cup and the plunger with new items.

dr dave

This just in......Red Stripe Beer makes you Stupic.

Dr D, when you screwed the "bolt" that holds the spring and plunger in did you feel considerable resistance?  You may have to stretch the spring a bit to restore it to original length. It should hold the shaft firmly with firm resistance when moved through the shifting pattern.

If it meets the above conditions and you still have unwanted "loose" movement then it's probably the nylon cup that is worn out and you can try the beer can shim trick. I didn't have to and re-used the old cup with no problems.     dan

"I don't know much, but what I do know I know little of "

I found the spring on the floor. Still rattling though not as bad. As scary as the beer can thing is, It's looking like it's worth a try.

dr dave

This just in......Red Stripe Beer makes you Stupic.

Dr, I got my spring and plunger from our host.   Now that it's back on the road there no vibration and a stiffer shifting pattern.    dan

"I don't know much, but what I do know I know little of "

Finally took it apart tonight. I went to install a brand new anti rattle plunger (#17). After taking out the spring retainer cup it appears there was no plunger, and no spring (#18). Hopefully someone has a spring in stock. I hope that will take care of it.

dr dave

This just in......Red Stripe Beer makes you Stupic.

well after further investigation it seem I dont have a "24 - gear seat" I got the older type "10 - 11"  but spose the shiming is the same.

That's it just shim around the barrel of the insert. Order the anti-rattle plunger also. It's a little brass plug that fits on the end of the spring. Mine had a big groove worn into it allowing the shifter rod to vibrate.  Replacing it really stiffened up the shifting also.   dan

"I don't know much, but what I do know I know little of "

hi, thanks for this topic its proving to be full of real awesome ideas, Im going to give the beer can repair a go but just want to double check I have my new to this wee head around it...

is this the part I wish to "beer can repair"

24

22G389

Gearlever seat

1

 

thanks in advance, going to replace the anti rattle spring as well but like the idea of taking that 1-2mm "travel" out of the gearstick.

I am brain dead today as I slept in and haven't had any coffee yet but someone here on the board had a similar problem with a ball shaped item that they welded up and filed to the correct dimentions and it worked fine. I remember it because I have the same problem with the same part and the replacement was NLA or major $$$ but for the life of me I can't remember what it is right now.

Gotta make some coffee!!!!    dan

"I don't know much, but what I do know I know little of "

Thanks for asking about this.  I've been meaning to do so for a while.

When I put my linkage together, I used the least worn parts from three sets.  All of the balls and female joints were at least somewhat worn.  Can the balls be welded and reground with good results?

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Charles Kuralt

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If you want to keep the original appearance (and assuming that there's no abnormal wear) just shove a Morris Minor front trunnion bush over the lower end of the lever (brim up - you'll see what I mean once you get hold of the bush).

Guaranteed sizzle stopper.

Cheers, Ian

Alex. Do as I say to solve the 'sizzle'. You didn't need to buy new bits. I did everything I could think of until CTR put me onto the solution. If you look at most Works rally cars you'll see a sleeve on the shifter which is the way Abingdon solved the problem.

I've just re-read the original post as well, and it does sound like the top nylon washer thingie is worn.

Having said that, mine still vibrated like a bugger with new top & bottom nylon cups.

The half moon seals are readily available - 22A285.

Metric is for people who can't do fractions.

I re-read the post and thought about the up and down movement more, it could be the nylon spacer ring is worn/missing and allows the ball to move up and down also. Check things out after you take the shifter boot off and as you disassemble it to see exactly what is allowing the movement. These nylon bits start to get expensive if you're throwing parts at it.

John, where were you when I had mine all apart?  Those are great ideas to modify the housing. I'll have to add it to my "To Do" list for the next time.   And remember to make sure you have the half moon seal installed or it will look like this----->     Lots of gravel and grease to make things interesting.

You can use silicone in place of the front top seal as I haven't seen one of these yet on anybody's website.   dan

"I don't know much, but what I do know I know little of "

As well as drill and tap the front of the casing and put a grease fitting there as well.  This will allow you to lubricate the front and the rear "bearing surfaces" that the gear change shaft slide on without removing the shaft.

You could drill and tap the spring retaining cap ( #20 ) and put a grease fitting on it.  Also drill a small hole in the anti rattle plunger ( #17 ).

in addition to the other suggestions, you might get some skilled help that can shim or replicate the worn bits and spring if a new spring isn't available