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4 Wheel Alignment specs?
TOPIC:  

4 Wheel Alignment specs?

    Created by: xcc_rider
Orig. Posting Date User Name Edit Date Msg No.
May-05-2008 08:42AM Hunter2   838182
May-05-2008 07:33AM xcc_rider   838170
May-04-2008 02:44PM declanm   838055
May-04-2008 12:55PM xcc_rider   838040
Apr-16-2008 06:43AM xcc_rider   835073
Apr-16-2008 03:45AM Hunter2   835040
Apr-15-2008 07:29PM tonto   835023
Apr-15-2008 01:28PM Cheleker   834958
Apr-15-2008 01:00PM tonto   834955
Apr-15-2008 09:04AM kerr   834902
Apr-15-2008 08:53AM tmsmith   834899
Apr-15-2008 08:02AM Cheleker Edited: Apr-16-2008 06:25AM   834887
Apr-15-2008 06:37AM xcc_rider   834867
Apr-14-2008 06:54AM cecat   834677
Apr-14-2008 02:56AM xcc_rider Edited: Apr-15-2008 06:29AM   834637
Apr-14-2008 02:48AM 1963S   834635
Apr-13-2008 09:11PM Hunter2   834618
Apr-13-2008 08:58PM Cheleker   834615
Apr-13-2008 08:19PM cecat   834611
Apr-13-2008 07:34PM xcc_rider Edited: Apr-13-2008 07:35PM   834600

 Forum Width:     Forum Type: 
Found 20 Messages   Page 1 of 1:   1 
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 Posted: May-05-2008 08:42AM
Hunter2
Total Posts: 1936
Last Post: 10-11-08
Member Since: 11-02-06

 
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Dan the rear camber can be adjusted if you slot the hole in the outer bracket (for the trailing arm pin) upwards with a suitable round file to move from positive towards negative camber.  The rear toe-in can be reduced with suitable shims on the outboard end of the trailing arm between the bracket and the subframe.  The factory setup included toe-in at the rear and others have recommended a minimum toe-in here.  My experience with zero rear toe-in and <1 deg. neg. camber at the rear has been good, especially on longer hauls (fuel consumption, tire wear, mind it's the front tires that wear out faster).

Host has fixed rear camber brackets offering 1.5 deg. of negative camber from stock (so, less than 1.5 deg. neg. installed, depending on how much positive camber your stock setup has)...or fully adjustable brackets!  If your stock setup showed different camber values at rear when checked then adjustable items might be the ones.

Mini friends!  Mini rides!

Restored/modified Mini 1000 with 1380cc power unit, 2.95:1 FD, adj. suspension, S discs/drums, 10x5 Minilites, 165x70 A008s, custom trim and matching custom trailer.

Minilite3.jpg

 Posted: May-05-2008 07:33AM
xcc_rider
Total Posts: 1061
Last Post: 10-10-08
Member Since: 10-06-04

 
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The rears have way too much positive toe which I read as toe-in if I read the print out correctly. Pos 1.21 on the left and Pos .80 on the right for a total of Pos 2.01 for the rear. I have no idea how that equates to inch measurements but according to the owner it will make the car more squirrely at speed which is the problem I have. It's better now I just want it the best I can. In retrospect I should have coughed up the extra $$ and just bought the adjustable camber AND toe brackets.  dan

"I don't know much, but what I do know I know little of "

 Posted: May-04-2008 02:44PM
declanm
Total Posts: 478
Last Post: 10-10-08
Member Since: 04-08-08

 
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one problem in getting Minis 4-wheel aligned is that many alignment shops cannot handle 10-inch wheels.  I know because I have asked.  If all you need is front toe adjusted, you should be able to do this at home with a minimum of components purchased at Home Depot or similar.  I know because I have adjusted front and rear toe in this manner.

Rear toe-in only increases the tendancy towards understeer, so minimize it if you must run any at all. 

If you want a really excellent and complete alignment, and have Hi-los or equivalent, borrow some racing scales(or take the car to where they are available) and set your corner weights "in the ballpark".  No need to go crazy here with precision.  Just strive to get the fronts close and leave the rears where they end up.  Remember to have someone or something of weight similar to the driver in the car when cornerweights are set. By getting the front cornerweights close, you'll minimize the likelihood of one-wheel weirdness when braking heavily.  True enough, many drivers are not sensitive enough, or brake hard enough, for cornerweights to be critically essential.

 Posted: May-04-2008 12:55PM
xcc_rider
Total Posts: 1061
Last Post: 10-10-08
Member Since: 10-06-04

 
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4 wheel alignment normally $50 at the shop. With all the extra adjusting he had to do it cost me $75 and I still need to go back after I slot my rear camber brackets so there's room to shim it for toe.  He tried to shim it without modifying the bracket but the bolt holes wouldn't give enough movement to insert shims.  dan

"I don't know much, but what I do know I know little of "

 Posted: Apr-16-2008 06:43AM
xcc_rider
Total Posts: 1061
Last Post: 10-10-08
Member Since: 10-06-04

 
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Thx for all the input, I've got it all captured or should I say scrawled down on a post-it for the alignment shop.  I'll update the post with the actual $$ next week after the alignment.   thx again, dan

"I don't know much, but what I do know I know little of "

 Posted: Apr-16-2008 03:45AM
Hunter2
Total Posts: 1936
Last Post: 10-11-08
Member Since: 11-02-06

 
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Probably too much toe-in at the rear.  Or, was there some crabbing (misaligned with the front) at the rear too?  I run mine with zero toe at the rear.  No sense scrubbing off the rubber on the highways and byways of North America!

Mini friends!  Mini rides!

Restored/modified Mini 1000 with 1380cc power unit, 2.95:1 FD, adj. suspension, S discs/drums, 10x5 Minilites, 165x70 A008s, custom trim and matching custom trailer.

Minilite3.jpg

 Posted: Apr-15-2008 07:29PM
tonto
Total Posts: 237
Last Post: 10-08-08
Member Since: 01-04-06

 
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I put my Cooper back to stock, except Cooper S disk brakes and wheels. It will be put back on the ground in the next few months, hopefully to get ready for the event in Calif. Sounds like I got to put some miles on her just to get it to look right. Perhaps set the front myself to 1/16 as you recommended and run some old tires for a few hundred miles and if the car looks like it has hit bottom, then get it done professionally. I worry about the back, as in my Mini's of the past always wore them funny.  Thanks Chuck.

 

 Posted: Apr-15-2008 01:28PM
Cheleker
Total Posts: 7637
Last Post: 10-10-08
Member Since: 12-03-02

 
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Todd,

You'll have to wait for cones to settle in. In spite of those that think otherwise, the cones were changed at some time (80s?) so that they ride silly high when new, but drop relatively rapidly over the first few hundred miles (depends upon loads and type of driving I would expect) and less quickly over the next thousand or so. I encourage people to use some form of "hi lo" suspension just for that reason; especially, when lots of money has been spent on adjustable suspension parts. Get the ride height where you want it right away; measure at the four "corners"; set up the suspension; monitor and reset as necessary.

If you have all stock suspension, you can ignore all the mentioned settings except the toe out at the front. Set it to the 1/16" out mentioned. Nothing else is easily modified. You can measure the rear. If the toe is more than 1/8" in you can shim it to decrease the toe in. The problem is, once the suspension settles, the front toe will change.

 

 Posted: Apr-15-2008 01:00PM
tonto
Total Posts: 237
Last Post: 10-08-08
Member Since: 01-04-06

 
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Chuck, are you saying if one has replaced cones, shocks, and other suspension components that they wait for a period of time for these components to settle in? How many miles do you reckon will be reqd for the final ride height to be set?, then properly aligned? Will the specs you mentioned apply with 145x10 for stock suspension?

Todd, stock 64 Cooper 

 Posted: Apr-15-2008 09:04AM
kerr
Total Posts: 
Last Post: 10-11-08
Member Since: 03-13-00

 
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a stock mini suspension only has one adjustment: front toe.

for that, $40 is just right.

But, for a fully adjustable mini suspension, especially when you add right height adjust*, plan to spend a lot, $150~200 or more, on having it done properly.

A real mini pro can maybe save you some dough on that, but any good racing shop can set it up for you. I would recommend to stay far away from any "production" alignment shop for a full, 4 wheel mini align + ride height set, unless you know them, as the mini will be too "weird" for them and they might not set it up as you intended.

Norm

*after each height adjust, they must re-do the settings, and then the ride height gets changed a little by that, and you go around again. A pro can do it in fewer iterations, but it takes patience to do right, the first time.

 Posted: Apr-15-2008 08:53AM
tmsmith
Total Posts: 1171
Last Post: 10-11-08
Member Since: 06-23-00

 
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$40 for a four wheel alignemnt seems like a great price. Maybe that is only for two as many minis do not have adjustable components in the back.

 Posted: Apr-15-2008 08:02AM
 Edited:  Apr-16-2008 06:25AM
Cheleker
Total Posts: 7637
Last Post: 10-10-08
Member Since: 12-03-02

 
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Here's a variation I use with 10s "for the street":

Front: standard Toe Out, 1/16" (measured on a 14.5" span); Camber, 1/2 to 1 degree negative; Castor 4 degrees positive. Work to get the toe out close. Work to get the camber the same side-to-side.

Rear. standard (1/8" to 1/16" Toe In. No less. Camber, straight up.

Make sure the suspension is settled in and the ride height is where you want it before the final setting.

 

 Posted: Apr-15-2008 06:37AM
xcc_rider
Total Posts: 1061
Last Post: 10-10-08
Member Since: 10-06-04

 
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Great George, thx. I also need to find someone who can turn the rear drums. I had a shop turn a set of minifins I got on a shell and they ruined them. The machine got caught about half way on a drum and gouged it deeply so I won't be going back to them.

 Any other suggestions on settings anyone?     dan

"I don't know much, but what I do know I know little of "

 Posted: Apr-14-2008 06:54AM
cecat
Total Posts: 83
Last Post: 09-02-08
Member Since: 11-12-04

 
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No problem Dan, i have a lot of hook ups in the valley, no need to drive long distances. Tony's tires also does a lot of mini tires, there very careful with the 10" rims.  I also have a hook up with a powder coater, he sandblasted my pickup, then powder coated it, did the sub frames, rims and any misc parts for like $500.00. Since I'm working on 4 mini's, and just recently purchased another 1, you have to shop around and save some bucks, but still get great service.

I will give you a call, with the list of shops, for powder coating, exhaust, paint, tire shop, mechanic, alignment, etc.

George

 Posted: Apr-14-2008 02:56AM
 Edited:  Apr-15-2008 06:29AM
xcc_rider
Total Posts: 1061
Last Post: 10-10-08
Member Since: 10-06-04

 
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Sorry, I'm running 165/70/10 Yoko's on Dunlop D1's.

George, please email me the info (or call if you still have my #). I was going to flat tow it down to Johnson's Alignment in Torrance but Reseda is a heck of a lot closer.  I'll probably take it down either this weekend or the middle of next week so we have time to talk.   thx dan

"I don't know much, but what I do know I know little of "

 Posted: Apr-14-2008 02:48AM
1963S
Total Posts: 418
Last Post: 09-28-08
Member Since: 09-21-06

 
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Minis don't need any grip at the rear. Go for zero camber.

More castert doesn't hurt; up to 5+ is OK.

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Apr-13-2008 09:11PM
Hunter2
Total Posts: 1936
Last Post: 10-11-08
Member Since: 11-02-06

 
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IF you have 10" wheels and 165X70 rubber, you SHOULD KEEP stock toe out at front, zero toe at rear, maybe -0.7 deg. at front and -1 deg. at rear.  Works for me giving good gas mileage on trips and handling without adjustment.

Mini friends!  Mini rides!

Restored/modified Mini 1000 with 1380cc power unit, 2.95:1 FD, adj. suspension, S discs/drums, 10x5 Minilites, 165x70 A008s, custom trim and matching custom trailer.

Minilite3.jpg

 Posted: Apr-13-2008 08:58PM
Cheleker
Total Posts: 7637
Last Post: 10-10-08
Member Since: 12-03-02

 
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Wheel and tire size?

 Posted: Apr-13-2008 08:19PM
cecat
Total Posts: 83
Last Post: 09-02-08
Member Since: 11-12-04

 
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Hey Dan, if you decide to not to do it yourself, i have an alignment specialist, down at Reseda Blvd and Vanowen St, in Reseda.  He has worked on lots of mini's, uses a laser machine. I think i paid 40.00 bucks.  I will get the information if you need it.

 

George

 Posted: Apr-13-2008 07:34PM
 Edited:  Apr-13-2008 07:35PM
xcc_rider
Total Posts: 1061
Last Post: 10-10-08
Member Since: 10-06-04

 
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I know this has been posted many times before but I'm getting close to getting it aligned and need some input from our more experienced members on the alignment specs. It's got adjustable lower arms, tie bars and rod ends on the front and Camber brackets on the rear and I plan to use shims to adjust for toe in on the rear if needed. I'm looking for decent tire life, and probably 50/50 freeway and 2 lane mountain road usage so base your suggestions on this. No racing in it's future, just fun!

So far the base numbers I have are:

Front; Camber -1.0, Castor +3.0, Toe out 1/16"  (with some opinions on -0.5 for Camber and +2.5 for castor)

Rear;  Camber -1.0, Toe in 1/8" (with some opinions on -0.5 for camber and 1/16" to 0" for toe in)

How do the base numbers sound or should I adjust them a little based on the opinions in the ( ) and to what end?   thx, dan

"I don't know much, but what I do know I know little of "

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