| scottbart |
| Total Posts: | 189 |
| Last Post: | 07-18-08 |
| User Since: | 02-23-07 |
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Posted: May-02-2008 05:37AM
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Ok, so it just wasn't me that had the rotor doesn't line up problem. I just switched the plug wires on the cap.
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| partsguy1 |
| Total Posts: | 1822 |
| Last Post: | 07-23-08 |
| User Since: | 11-01-03 |
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Posted: May-01-2008 04:04PM
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Just a re-visit on this, I too had to reposition my Distributor drive gear one tooth counter clock-wise. Thanks for the Topic post and the answers provided......... saved allot of head scratching today. Terry If your not on the edge............ your taking up to much space.
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| Dan Moffet |
| Total Posts: | 2267 |
| Last Post: | 07-22-08 |
| User Since: | 08-14-02 |
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Posted: Oct-04-2007 08:13AM
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In the 123 instructions, (I know... real guys don't read instructions!) it advises repositioning the drive dog if necessary. I found it easier to reposition the gear shaft which was out of correct position on mine anyway. Easy in an A+ where you can't drop it into the transmission. "Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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| Se7en |
| Total Posts: | 6853 |
| Last Post: | 07-23-08 |
| User Since: | 01-16-00 |
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Posted: Oct-04-2007 06:30AM
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While installing mine last night (engine not started yet), I noted that the rotor position relative to the drive dog is 90 degrees clockwise from the Lucas unit just removed (and other Lucas units as well, I believe), so in lieu of the #1 cap terminal being at the "normal" 2 o'clock position once the unit was seated at TDC, it was at 5 o'clock. That little variable may be similar on yours. Once I get it running suitably, I'll do as the instructions allow and reposition the dog on the shaft such that # 1 moves back to the "normal" position and doesn't confuse me sometime in the future as I continue to forget things like this. Keep notes? Now there's a concept!!! SE7EN
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| Latka |
| Total Posts: | 6554 |
| Last Post: | 07-16-08 |
| User Since: | 12-03-99 |
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Posted: Aug-12-2007 07:34PM
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Good 'ole PEBKAC strikes again.  Man you were pretty quick to want to sell it! Glad to hear you got it running though. Everyone I've talked to said the 123 is good stuff!
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My Higher Authority is the German Purity Law of 1516 .
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| Cup Cake |
| Total Posts: | 5212 |
| Last Post: | 07-23-08 |
| User Since: | 05-13-01 |
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Posted: Aug-12-2007 05:13PM
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GOT IT GOING. In a moment of inspirartion (these moments are rare at my age but quite vivid) I realized the dizzy was out 180 deg and I switched the plug leads accordingly and VOILA fired up right away. I must have got something wrong on assembly ie flywheel 180 deg out. Otherwise everything is it should be ie cam drive spindle the right orientation, large offset at the top and rotor points at #1 when pointer at TDC 1/4 on flywheel while #1 valves 'rocking'. Dan your comments would have tweeked me if I had read your post first. Keep those suggestions coming even for self-proclaimed experts who think they know what they are doing. Sorry SE7EN I guess the 123 is not 4sale now. Can't wait to give it a try. It is a 1293 S motor with a 12G940 1.4/1.1 valves, a MG Metro cam profile and HIF44 carb. I ported the head by removing the intake valve guide bosses but left the exhaust valve bosses alone. Removed the carb locating rings groove and indexed the intake manifold on the head.
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| Dan Moffet |
| Total Posts: | 2267 |
| Last Post: | 07-22-08 |
| User Since: | 08-14-02 |
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Posted: Aug-12-2007 10:34AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Cup Cake OK .... but I'm not a happy camper. Get a few 'wuffs' and a few 'wiffs' of smoke out the K&N (Wuffs and Wiffs .... is that good?) pointing the vacuum port at the #3 plug BUT nothing when use the next hole. Was going to try the previous hole but I guess that could be futile. Cleaning up a 25D from the old Landcrab to try and pulling on another pint. Anybody want a 123 that's never fired a cylinder? The price might be right. |
If you're getting "backfires" out the carb, it sounds like you set the timing marks on the pulley (or flywheel) to TDC but forgot to make sure that the No.1 cylinder was just completing its compression stroke. The timing marks actually point to TDC for No.1 AND No. 4 cylinders, but are out of camshaft phase by 1 revolution. You have to make sure that both valves on NO.1 cylinder are closed. That is most easily done by removing the rocker cover and observing the angles of the valve rockers. When you are at NO.1 TDC, the valves on No.4 will be both partly open as it is finishing its exhaust stroke and ready to srart its intake stroke. Another way to find No. 1 compression stroke is to remove all spark plugs EXCEPT No. 1 and push the car forward (in gear) until you feel the compression resistance. The timing mark should then be about 1/3 revolution before the pointer. Remove the spark plug and rotate the engine by hand up to TDC. You should also put a "feeler" into the No.1 park plug hole and make sure the timing marks are correct - they could be off. The piston pushes the feeler up as it rises. --- Don't get it jammed!--- and the feeler starts to fall as the piston passes TDC. Next, if you haven't already done this, remove the dizzy and make sure the dizzy drive gear hasn't shifted a tooth or two. The 123 instructions tell you which angle the drive slot should be. If you have an A-series (PRE A+) be careful not to drop the gear into the transmission! Yours should be OK, but I did find mine was of by a couple of teeth. My old dizzy's vaccuum line pointed straight up! Lastly, make sure the dizzy wires are still in the correct order - they have a way of shifting around by themselves! You'll love it once it's in right, and the vultures will have to pony up their own cash! Worth every penny! "Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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| MacDhaibhidh |
| Total Posts: | 1183 |
| Last Post: | 07-23-08 |
| User Since: | 04-04-01 |
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Posted: Aug-11-2007 07:16PM
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I want it as well, place me in second, I will even work a deal, with a NEW 25D4. Side entry cap and wires. Thank You in advance! Cheers, Stieve Go Fast or Go Home! MacDhaibhidh is Scottish Gaelic for Davidson AyePod! All yer choons on wan boax!
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| Se7en |
| Total Posts: | 6853 |
| Last Post: | 07-23-08 |
| User Since: | 01-16-00 |
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Posted: Aug-11-2007 06:24PM
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I'll take the first spot in that line. In the mean time, hang in there, it'll likely come right. Good luck getting it sorted. SE7EN
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| Cup Cake |
| Total Posts: | 5212 |
| Last Post: | 07-23-08 |
| User Since: | 05-13-01 |
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Posted: Aug-11-2007 06:15PM
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OK .... but I'm not a happy camper. Get a few 'wuffs' and a few 'wiffs' of smoke out the K&N (Wuffs and Wiffs .... is that good?) pointing the vacuum port at the #3 plug BUT nothing when use the next hole. Was going to try the previous hole but I guess that could be futile. Cleaning up a 25D from the old Landcrab to try and pulling on another pint. Anybody want a 123 that's never fired a cylinder? The price might be right.
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| chichm |
| Total Posts: | 999 |
| Last Post: | 07-22-08 |
| User Since: | 02-20-00 |
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Posted: Aug-11-2007 04:31PM
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Nope, doesn't matter which hole you use (which is NOT what my wife tells me, but that's different  ). Just choose the orientation of the vacuum port, usually pointing to 10 O'clock, then do the LED thang to set the static timing to TDC.
visit my world
www.starchak.ca also check out www.TDCperformance.ca
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| Cup Cake |
| Total Posts: | 5212 |
| Last Post: | 07-23-08 |
| User Since: | 05-13-01 |
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Posted: Aug-11-2007 12:20PM
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There are 4 holes located at 90 deg intervals on the base plate of a 123 for the LED to shine through. If the LED shows in one hole you can rotate the body another 90 deg for it to shine through the next hole .... etc. Does it matter which one of these holes is used for the initial setup? Can't get the Woody started although I think it is a fueling issue because the plugs are dry. The carb has been sitting for awhile and the float needle was stuck open, maybe something else is gummed up.
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