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QuickSilver
Total Posts: 16277
Last Post: 11-22-08
Member Since: 02-20-01
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But Mur, I have a Smiths mechanical gauge now.
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mur
Total Posts: 2864
Last Post: 11-21-08
Member Since: 11-12-99
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Your coolant routing will be fine, but I don't think you need the aux rad. Get a mechanical guage from an auto parts store. They will come with a set of adapters, use one; the right one, so that the bulb will not bottom out on the casting where the extra 1300 head bolt goes. Before installing it, place it in boiling water. it should show around 212 F depending on your altitude. Install that unit into the moke and compare it's readings Versus the readings you get off the infrared thermometer. These thermometers are handy, but till you have a comparison point it is hard to guage the accuracy of the infrared thermometer along with variables like the distance you are from the object, and the difference between surface temp on the outside of the head and coolant temp inside.
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QuickSilver
Total Posts: 16277
Last Post: 11-22-08
Member Since: 02-20-01
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My plan is to go from the heater take of into the new aux rad and out form there into the lower hose, so basically just hanging a heater core in the airstream. No/Yes?
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QuickSilver
Total Posts: 16277
Last Post: 11-22-08
Member Since: 02-20-01
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Okay Guys have patience as I'm new to this. So after a robust drive I painted the thermo housing and I'm getting 150ish, gauge shows 200 in the car. I painted the head adn the temp is not in line with the gauge in car, the gauge in car shows hotter. Is this normal? I will be making up an excel of temps from the location that mur mentioned and this was just a preliminary check open the box and start shooting deal.
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mur
Total Posts: 2864
Last Post: 11-21-08
Member Since: 11-12-99
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Oh, but, if you placed an old lower rad hose, cut down, where the upper hose goes; and run a hose to that T from the heater take off, I would expect a massive cooling increase. Also: Expansion tank?
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mur
Total Posts: 2864
Last Post: 11-21-08
Member Since: 11-12-99
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You might find an older Toyota Pickup unit for about $fifteen dollars. That might be sixteen or seventeen in Texas... Basically, just ask for the cheapest heater core with 1/2 inch nipples. Have a good solid look at how it flows: If it goes up one side and then down the other, you will be fine, but if it goes across the face and back, then the hot coolant needs to enter the back and cool coolant the front. Basically, were it the other way, the hot coolant just adds heat back to itself.
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QuickSilver
Total Posts: 16277
Last Post: 11-22-08
Member Since: 02-20-01
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Quote: Originally Posted by mur You could simply run a hose from the heater take off to the upper hose going into the super 2 core rad. It would be useful to get a set of base temp readings of the whole engine. Buy an infrared thermostat tool and get the car good and hot. Read at the heater end of the head, the thermostat end, the top tank of the rad, and then the bottom tank. also do the bottom of the sump for an oil temp perspective. Then start making changes. Also, please get your coolant to exactly what the water wetter or purple ice people say on the directions. The 998 in the woody I am driving will have the needle sweep over to between N and H. I'll be getting 195, 198, 200, nothing useful from the bottom of the tank because I'm too lazy to remove the grille, and 188 for the oil. This was for construction zone traffic insanity on I 5 around Weed. |
I picked up an infra red thermometer and a timing gun from harbor freight this afternoon. I'll be shooting and timing on my way home. You Guys should watch the news in case my Texas State Trooper nabs me shooting of a laser device in public  Edit: I also have the heater nipple and lower hose comming to me, allI need to source now is a suitable radiator/heater core. Which one might AutoZone have that will have the necessary plumbing size.
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Mini Mike
Total Posts: 1025
Last Post: 11-21-08
Member Since: 09-24-99
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Heater came with the Moke from Australia, and the only thing it's good for is clearing the windscreen during rain...which we desperately needed on the trip home through Seattle... it's also good for making rattling noises for hour and hours while I am driving! Mini Mike. ..... - MOKE being Driven! minimikebc.tripod.com www.victoriaminis.com
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Hunter2
Total Posts: 2034
Last Post: 11-21-08
Member Since: 11-02-06
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We did not see HOT weather in California for MMW but some local Minis apparently suffered from overheating. The 1380 ran on Normal all the time with 195 F Mr. Gasket Thermostat, Water Wetter and Chevy/GM pickup heater core with 1/2" outlets plumbed into place of Mini's heater core. Our experience suggests there is no need to plumb from heater take-off into thermostat housing or upper hose or rad expansion tank. A good core facing the oncoming air will deal with the coolant coming from the heater take-off before returning it to lower rad hose. Now..has someone got a simple fix for 30 year old factory wiring? Rick/Hunter2 Mini friends! Mini rides! Restored/modified Mini 1000 with 1380cc power unit, 2.95:1 FD, adj. suspension, S discs/drums, 10x5 Minilites, 165x70 A008s, custom trim and matching custom trailer.
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Dr Mini
Total Posts: 4212
Last Post: 11-20-08
Member Since: 05-23-02
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"about as much use as t1ts on a Hog!" The old saying goes, "useless as t1ts on a BORE Hog!" Now, does that make any more sense said that way?
"Retired: No Job, No Money, No Wife! Will
travel anywhere for Minis"
hockey91dad@hotmail.com
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QuickSilver
Total Posts: 16277
Last Post: 11-22-08
Member Since: 02-20-01
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Okay heres my plan of attack. First, I am going to confirm the timing, I am fixing on ordering a timing gun. Second, I am ordering the proper sundries to get the #4 to flow into the thermo housing. This issue was non existent last summer and the gauges are fine. I will report back. Quick "hot n bothered" McSilver
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mur
Total Posts: 2864
Last Post: 11-21-08
Member Since: 11-12-99
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So, could you do those things please; What Zip said...
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QuickSilver
Total Posts: 16277
Last Post: 11-22-08
Member Since: 02-20-01
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Quote: Originally Posted by zip-tph "...not sure a baby hog will agree with you Sir..." I dunno.... Don't think a baby pig would have much use for a heater in a Moke either. |
Hmmmm, I was out witted by a Yankee
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zip-tph
Total Posts: 3916
Last Post: 11-21-08
Member Since: 11-12-99
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"...not sure a baby hog will agree with you Sir..." I dunno.... Don't think a baby pig would have much use for a heater in a Moke either.
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QuickSilver
Total Posts: 16277
Last Post: 11-22-08
Member Since: 02-20-01
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Quote: Originally Posted by Martin Greenbank Quote: Originally Posted by Mini Mike I added an aluminum heater core to the RH side of the drill on the Moke and plumbed it in series with the heater core already inside the car. |
Off topic.... Mini Mike, a heater in a Moke? Sacrilegious! My first Moke had a factory-fitted heater - about as much use as t1ts on a Hog! Martin.
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Hey Martin of Idaho, not sure a baby hog will agree with you Sir 
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Quote: Originally Posted by Mini Mike I added an aluminum heater core to the RH side of the drill on the Moke and plumbed it in series with the heater core already inside the car. |
Off topic.... Mini Mike, a heater in a Moke? Sacrilegious! My first Moke had a factory-fitted heater - about as much use as t1ts on a Hog! Martin.
My mind's made up - don't bother me with
facts!
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Mini Mike
Total Posts: 1025
Last Post: 11-21-08
Member Since: 09-24-99
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I added an aluminum heater core to the RH side of the drill on the Moke and plumbed it in series with the heater core already inside the car..I had no problems in LA, or uop through Death Valley in the hot temps..It is very light and was easy to plumb in, or remove..I have a cover to ut in front of it for cold days at home, or I will just remove it for my normnal around town driving..Mike Mini Mike. ..... - MOKE being Driven! minimikebc.tripod.com www.victoriaminis.com
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xcc_rider
Total Posts: 1087
Last Post: 11-11-08
Member Since: 10-06-04
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You could easily add a return to the inlet tank on the radiator. My idea was to add a return on the flat area below the pressure cap. Basically the same as Terry's except you don't get as much mixing but you'll still increase the capacity of the cooling system. dan "I don't know much, but what I do know I know little of "
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WeirdEh
Total Posts: 1425
Last Post: 11-19-08
Member Since: 04-21-04
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Ok I really like what partsguy has done....except on the thermo end. just don't like the taping into the housing. what if you had the rad shop add another inlet to the top tank?? I also don't really like the look of the bottom hose on the top to allow the water to come in there. they both look like temp fixes. can anybody think of a reason NOT to have another inlet set into the top tank? if the rad was to be replace you could always go and get a rad shop to add the inlet for you. around here no one will have parts on the shelf so custom should not be an issue. taking the rad in in the morning to have it fixed anyway.....
If it breaks, Improve it !
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xcc_rider
Total Posts: 1087
Last Post: 11-11-08
Member Since: 10-06-04
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Quick, check out the thread below, there's a good amount of info on aux cooling and Terry (Partsguy) came up with an easy way to return the aux cooler to the radiator inlet. http://www.minimania.com/web/threadid/91849/InfoID/1/SiteMessages/10/msgthread.cfm Make sure whatever heater core you use has 1/2" taps or you'll have to have a radiator shop modify it for the hoses. dan "I don't know much, but what I do know I know little of "
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