Step 1: Remove stock Mini engine and sub-frame. Then remove everything else in the engine compartment.
Step 2: Remove inner fenders: Cut and remove both inner fenders as shown. You will need this extra space for the width of the subframe.
Step 3: Cut out metal just below stock shock mount. This is needed to fit the MTD subframe (See following two photos).
Step 4: Cut out behind grille: You will need to remove any excess metal behind your grille (See Photo Below). This will give you maximum flow and cooling ability.
Step 5: Remove all inner metal bracketry that is attached to the lower valence. Cut off lower front valence 1" below bumper lip at intersection. At this point you will need to reattach and weld valance to leading edge of bumper lip as shown.
Your Mini should now be prepared for the installation process.
Installation
Installing Engine Into Frame:
Step 1: Lower engine into frame. Attach engine to frame using stock engine mount (use *1/2 x 4 1/2 bolt) and stock transmission mount (use 1/2 x 4 1/2 bolt).
Step 2: Attach upper bump stops. Mini bump stops with the single stud will work here.
Installing Engine and Subframe into Mini:
Step 1: By lowering the car onto the frame, attach it to the car using the two large frame mounting bolts just like the standard Mini frame attaches. If your car is an earlier model and does not have thes two large 3/4" diameter bolts, then you will need our MK1/2 Subframe Mounting Kit. Standard Mini mounting bolts are circled in red in the following photo. Do not tighten completely at this point. You will need to attach the frame and the bottom first.
Step 2: Drill six holes to support the bottom of the frame using a 5/16" drill bit. Use the six supplied 5/16" bolts with plates to fasten the frame to the car on the lower side. The plates will go inside of the car to give the floor panel extra support. After the six bolts are in place and tightened, tighten the two large frame mounting bolts on top of the frame. See photos.
Your subframe and engine should now be attached to your Mini.
Coil-Over Shock Installation:
Step 1: Replace Mini upper shock mounts with the provided upper strut mounts.
Step 2: Attach lower side of shock as shown in photos. Do the same for both sides.
Step 3: Attach top shock to upper strut mount. See photo. Do the same for both sides.
Axles: Assembly and Installation:
Parts needed for assembly: *Chromoly Axle Shafts, Complete Inner Honda CV Joint Assemblies, and Complete Outer Mini CV Joint Assemblies. (See Photo Below).
Step 1: Assemble small end of axle shaft with the Mini CV joint assembly as done on a stock Mini but replace ball bearing gear with supplied gear.
Honda Axle End Assembly: Assemble large splinned side of axle with the Honda CV joint assembly. (See following four photos).
Axle Installation: Simply slide one of the axles into the transmission and the other into the engine mid-shaft until the axles lock into place.
Swivel Hubs and Brakes: Install the Swivel Hubs and Brakes as done on stock Mini.
Master Cylinder:Depending on your setup, you may have to relocate one of your master cylinders. If you have both master cylinders on the right side of the car, then they are clear. If you have both master cylinders on the left side, then the brake master cylinder will have to be relocated. We recommend getting a left hand drive conversion pedal box. This will allow you to mount the master cylinder on the right side of the car, clear of any objects. Note: For best clearance, check out Mini Tec's Aluminum Racing Pedal Kit.
Shifter Linkage: Use Honda Shifter linkage for the conversion.
Step 1:Cut all four ends off of the shifter linkage.
Step 2: Hang shifter in stock Mini location. New holes will need to be drilled. (See following photo).
Step 3: Hang shifter ends on the transmission. (See following photo).
Step 4: Reattach lower shifter end (as shown in following photo). The shifter rod reducers will be needed to rebuild the shifter linkage (shifter rod reducers are shown being held in previous and following photos).
Step 5: Rebuild the shifter linkage using 3/4" metal pipe. Bend and weld pipes so that all gears can be easily shifted to and from without hitting the body or anything els. (See following photo).
Fuel System: Change your fuel pump to one that ranges from 32 to 48 psi. A return line will be needed on certain models that do not have them.
Cooling System: The MTB2 Subframe is designed to use the Honda Civic radiator 1992-1998 model. There are two tabs located on the front of the sub frame for mounting this radiator.
Alternative: Mini Tec Radiator Kit - comes with everything you need to keep your Honda Mini running at the correct operating temperature. Items included are: Aluminum Radiator, Radiator Fan, Radiator Hoses, and a Catch Can.
Compatible Honda B Series Engines: Here is a list of available B Series Honda engines that you can use with your MTB2 Kit.
- B16A VTEC Found in:
- 1989-1993 JDM Honda Integra RSi/XSi (DA6/DA8)
- 1989-1991 JDM Honda CRX SiR (EF8)
- 1989-1991 JDM Honda Civic SiR/SiRII (EF9)
- Displacement: 1595 cm³
- Compression: 10.2:14
- Rod/stroke ratio: 1.74
- Power: 158 hp @ 7600 rpm & 112 ft lbf @ 7000 rpm
- Transmission: S1/J1/Y1/A1/YS1
- 1992-1995 JDM Honda Civic SiR/SiRII (EG6/EG9)
- Displacement: 1595 cm³
- Compression: 10.4:1
- Power: 168 hp @ 7800 rpm & 116 ft lbf @ 7300 rpm
- Transmission: S4C
- 1992-1996 EDM Honda Civic VTi
- Displacement: 1595 cm³
- Compression: 10.4:1
- Power: 158 hp @ 7600 rpm & 116 ft lbf @ 7300 rpm
- 1992-1996 JDM Honda CRX del Sol SiR
- Displacement: 1595 cm³
- Compression: 10.4:1
- Power: 158 hp - 170 hp & 111 ft lbf - 116 ft lbf
- B16A1 VTEC Found in:
- 1981-1991 EUDM Honda CRX 1.6i/VTi (EE8/ED)
- 1990-1991 EUDM Honda Civic 1.6iVT (EE9)
- Displacement: 1595 cm³
- Compression: 10.2:1
- Power: 150 hp (112 kW) @ 7600 rpm & 111 ft·lbf (151 N·m) @ 7000 rpm
- B16A2 VTEC Found in:
- 1992-2000 Honda Civ EDM VTi (EG & EK)
- Displacement: 1595 cm³
- Compression: 10.2:1
- Power: 160 hp @ 7600 rpm & 113 ft·lbf (153 N·m) @ 7300 rpm
- Transmision: Y21
- 1999-2000 Honda Civic Si (EM1)
- Displacement: 1595 cm³
- Compression: 10.2:1
- Power: 160 hp (118 kW) @ 7600 rpm & 111 ft·lbf (151 N·m) @ 7000 rpm
- Transmision: Y21 S4C
- 1996-1997 Honda Del Sol VTEC (EG)
- Displacement: 1595 cm³
- Compression: 10.4:1
- Power: 160 hp (119 kW) @ 7800 rpm & 111 ft·lbf (152 N·m) @ 7000 rpm
- Transmision: Y21
- B16A3 VTEC Found in: Found in:
- 1994-1995 Honda Del Sol VTEC (EG)
- Displacement: 1595 cm³
- Compression: 10.4:1
- Power: 160 hp (119 kW) @ 7800 rpm & 111 ft·lbf (152 N·m) @ 7000 rpm
- Transmision: Y21
- B16A6 VTEC Found in:
- 1996-2000 Honda Civic - South Africa VTEC (EK)
- Displacement: 1595 cm³
- Compression: 10.2:1
- Power: 160 hp (118 kW) @ 7800 rpm & 160 N·m @ 7400 rpm
- Transmision: Y21
- B16B VTEC Found in:
- 1997-2000 Civic Type-R[EK9]
- Displacement: 1595 cm³
- Compression: 10.8:1
- Power: 185 hp (137 kW) @ 8200 rpm & 118 ft lbf (160 N·m) @ 7400 rpm
- Transmision: S4C With LSD
- B17A1 VTEC Found in:
- 1992-1999 Integra GS-R (DB2)
- Displacement: 1608 cm³
- Compression: 9.6:1
- Power: 160 hp @ 9500 rpm & 197 ft lbf (159 N·m) @ 2200 rpm
- Transmision: cable~XS1
- B18A1Found in:
- 1990-1993 Integra RS/LS/GS (DA)
- Displacement: 1834 cm³
- Compression: 9.2:1
- Bore: 81mm
- Stroke: 89mm
- Power:
- 1990-1991: 130 hp (97 kW) @ 6000 rpm & 121 ft lbf (164 N·m) @ 5000 rpm
- 1992-1994: 140 hp (104 kW) @ 6300 rpm & 127 ft lbf (173 N·m) @ 5200 rpm
- Transmision: YS1
- B18B1Found in:
- 1994-2001 Acura Integra "RS/LS/GS" (DC4/DB7)
- Displacement: 1834 cc
- Compression: 9.2:1
- Bore: 81mm
- Stroke: 89mm
- Power: 142 hp @ 6300 rpm & 127 ft lbf @ 5200 rpm
- Transmision: S88
- B18C VTECFound in:
- JDM Spec Honda Integra ITR
- Displacement: 1797 cm³
- Compression: 11.1:1 (JDM) - The USDM Integra Type-R 10.6:1
- Power: 200 ps (200 hp) @ 7800 rpm & 134 ft lbf @6200 rpm
- Transmision: Y80
- B18C1 VTECFound in:
- 1994-2001 Integra GS-R (DC2 & DB8)
- Displacement: 1797 cm³
- Compression: 11.0:1
- Power: 170 hp @ 7600 rpm & 128 ft lbf @6200 rpm
- Transmision: S80
- B18C3 VTECFound in:
- 1995-1998 Acura Integra Type R
- B18C4 VTECFound in:
- 1996-2000 UK Civic 1.8i VTi 5-door Hatch
- 1996-2000 UK Civic Aerodeck 1.8i VTi 5-Door Wagon
- 1998-1999 EU Civic Aerodeck 1.8i VTi 5-Door Wagon
- 1998-1999 EU Civic 1.8i VTi 5-Door Hatch
- Displacement: 1797 cm³
- Compression: 10.0:1
- Power: 169 hp (124 kW) @ 8000 rpm & 129 ft lbf (174 N·m) @ 7500 rpm
- Transmision: S9B
- B18C5 VTECFound in:
- 1997-2001 Integra Type-R
- Displacement: 1797 cm³
- Compression: 11.0:1
- Power: 192 hp @ 8000 rpm & 130 ft lbf (176 N·m) @ 7500 rpm
- Transmision: S80
- B18C6 VTECFound in:
- 1998-2001 Honda Integra UK and Euro Spec Type R
- Power: 190 ps (147 kW), 187N·m
- B18C7 VTECFound in:
- 1996- Honda Integra Type R (Australia)
- Power: 200 hp (140 kW), 136 ft lbf
Wiring: Because the Mini is a stand alone system, only OBD1 computers can be used. Pin-outs can be found on the web. Contact your local Honda tuner for more information.
Intake Modification: You will need to shorten or modify your intake so that it does not interfere with the bulkhead. We suggest cutting the intake and adding 45 degree silicone elbows as shown below. Silicone hoses can be purchased through various racing parts dealers such as www.venair.com .
Alternator Mounting: You will need to relocate your alternator using the bracket provided. After mounting the alternator, measure the distance around the alternator and crankshaft pulley to determine belt length needed.
Suspension Setup: These figures are for daily driving. You may want to set up the car differently if planning on racing your Mini.
- Front Caster Setting = 2.5 to 3.5 Degrees (2.5 for a lighter steering wheel, 3.5 for a heavier wheel)
- Front Camber Setting = -0.5 to -1 Degree (Less for street driving, more for racing)
Check List: For your safety, please check...
- That every suspension component is fastened tightly.
- That the steering system is fastened properly and all nuts and bolts are secure.
- For a firm brake pedal.
- That the engine is stationary.
- All fluid levels are full.
- Tires are inflated properly.
- All lug nuts are tightened
Test Drive: For your test drive, go slow and easy to make sure that there are no problems. Listen to the car as you drive it for odd noises. Drive the car easily for a few miles and then go over the Check List again. After driving the car for 100 miles, check the front suspension alignment.
Periodically, you will need to check all of your suspension components for wear. After that, have fun!
Disclaimer of Warranty: Neither the seller nor the manufacturer will be liable for any loss, damage, or injury directly or indirectly arising from the use or inability to determine the use of this product.
Before using, the use shall determine the suitability of the products for it's intended use, and the user should assume full responsibility and risk in connection herewith.
For Offroad Use Only!
Copyright 2006 Mini Tec, L.L.C. All Rights Reserved.
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