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A "wet" Mini is now over 30 years old and has probably developed a few problems with the Hydro system. The really bad news is that replacement parts can be nearly impossible to get and fixing one leak just means the next one will be in a different place! One final solution is to bite the bullet and go "Dry" This conversion kit includes:
(4) FAM3968=Cones (Springs) with Nut
C-AJJ3359=Pair Top Shock mounts, Lowered
(2) C-AJJ3361=Shock Pins, Competition
(2) 158/M12GAS=Rear Shocks, SPAX Adjustable
(2) 158/M11GAS=Front Shocks,SPAX Adjustable
(2) 21A530=Aluminum Struts
(2) 21A1684=Rear Struts, Late Mini
See also kits: MMKT0901, -0902, -0905, -0909
Mini Mania kits are priced to save you money. Get all of the components you need for less than if purchased separately.
Classic Mini Hydrolastic Wet To Dry Conversion With Spax Shocks

Classic Mini Hydrolastic Wet To Dry Conversion With Spax Shocks

Classic Mini Hydrolastic Wet To Dry Conversion With Spax Shocks
Part No: MMKT0900
$1252.95
Qty:
Specially Priced. Discounts Do Not Apply.
Fits the following:
Classic Mini
A "wet" Mini is now over 30 years old and has probably developed a few problems with the Hydro system. The really bad news is that replacement parts can be nearly impossible to get and fixing one leak just means the next one will be in a different place! One final solution is to bite the bullet and go "Dry" This conversion kit includes:
(4) FAM3968=Cones (Springs) with Nut
C-AJJ3359=Pair Top Shock mounts, Lowered
(2) C-AJJ3361=Shock Pins, Competition
(2) 158/M12GAS=Rear Shocks, SPAX Adjustable
(2) 158/M11GAS=Front Shocks,SPAX Adjustable
(2) 21A530=Aluminum Struts
(2) 21A1684=Rear Struts, Late Mini
See also kits: MMKT0901, -0902, -0905, -0909
 
 
Question:
Hello, I’m looking to do a wet to dry conversion on my 1968 morris mini mk2. I was looking at the budget cone kit, but had a few questions. For the front subframe towers, do I have to do anything specifically to seat the cone where the displacement bag was? I was also thinking of buying some new upper arms so I wouldn’t have to mess up the old hydro arms by drilling, would this be worth it or is drilling the mount recommended? For the rear, are the current hydro trailing arms sufficient to mount the dampers, or would I need to either replace the stub axles or buy all new dry arms? I plan on keeping the hydro system components on hand, but would like to simplify as much as possible. Are there any other things I should know or any tips going into this conversion?
Answer:

Kevin,
    The upgrade to dry suspension can be done with only a few modifications. The front hydro bags are held into the subframe with a couple tabs that are inside the tower of the subframe. You simply twist the hydro bags to remove them. The corresponding tabs subframe must then be bent back to allow the dry rubber cones to seat properly. This is probably the most difficult part of the upgrade and the tabs are at the top edge where the hydro bags are removed from.  

As for the upper arms, drilling them is easy enough and and will not effect their use if a return to hydro is in the future.  The rear arms can be dealt with in a couple ways. The most common option would be to cut off the stud where the spring is attached and simply drill and tap if for a bolt. But as this would not allow for an easy conversion back to hydro, the second most common approach would be to simply install new stub axles. Third option would be to replace them with dry arms.

I have converted a number of cars and can assure you the upgrade is well worth it!

 
 
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