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 Posted: Sep 20, 2017 04:27AM
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US
Ping Cheleker.  Chuck always has a good summary of the steps involved.  I remember something about getting your arm behind the card so you can bow it outward without actually folding it.

Doug L.
 Posted: Sep 19, 2017 03:18PM
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I've found the back lower edge is tight on the drain tube so I notch out both lower corners to give a bit more clearance around both tubes. This then allows the central part of the card to drop lower in the door as you bend it to clear the top of frame. One corner is already notched, I just increase that a smidge, then do to same on the other side. The material can be peeled back then re-glued. The pocket liner covers this up so still looks correct. Still a tight fit though!

 Posted: Sep 19, 2017 01:50PM
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I"ll be doing a set in a week or so in a 60'.  Last time I had my hands on the door cards, I had a difficult time getting past the top right, top left.  Depending on which door, but it was the side that has the handle. I recall cracking some of the backing. Once in, it's not noticeable, but I'd love to know the secret.  I think bending the center forward to shorten the height helps.

 Posted: Sep 19, 2017 11:26AM
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Twenty or thirty years ago I could do a deep water bare foot start. I changed my MK 1 S color three times before the shell was stolen from body shop in 1990 going for a fourth change. I used the originals each time to make my own door cards and they were always a pain. I never made another set. The door cards for the roll ups have been to thick of Masonite board to for the upper edge. It's always something isn't it? I have had to peel the material back and thin the edge and re glue. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Sep 19, 2017 10:51AM
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After 40 odd years I don't think I've ever had a set of door cards go in without a struggle! I now lightly score the backs of the card to allow them to bend a bit easier and apply petroleum jelly to the edges to get them to slip in easier. Just make sure they are not upside down..........

Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch

 Posted: Sep 19, 2017 08:16AM
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I removed the cardboard liner in the bottom.  I used to do this 20-30 years ago and never had this kind of problem.  

Dogscarf

 Posted: Sep 19, 2017 05:21AM
 Edited:  Sep 19, 2017 05:23AM
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CA
It has been over 40 years since I fought with early door cards, but I seem to recall a card panel in the bottom of the pocket that, if removed, gives more clearance, allowing the door card to drop lower. Or maybe it was getting the bottom of the door card into a deeper part of the door.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Sep 19, 2017 05:03AM
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Fellow Minoids,  I am having a hell of a time installing and removing the door cards on my Mk2 Cooper S.  I got the cards from Newton Commercial and actually broke both removing them to work on the door hinges.  They seem to be slightly over-sized.  Has anyone else out there had this issue?  What about scoring them horizontally so that they could be folded?  I have new ones now and they are the same.  I will have to re-trim them from top to bottom 3/4" or so, and the front cut-out where it fits around the lower hinge.

On the plus side, the Aussie front door panels from Newton seem to fit fine.

Dogscarf


65 Austin Cooper 
67 Morris Cooper S
68 Morris Cooper S