5% Off

800-946-2642
Shop by Car
   Forum Width:     Forum Type: 

Found 23 Messages

Previous Set of Pages 1 | 2

 Posted: Sep 10, 2017 08:54AM
Total posts: 1658
Last post: Sep 10, 2017
Member since:Apr 21, 2004
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldminimover49
WeirdEh: Is that the same mini l sold you 10-12 years ago? If so, l think my warranty just expired. LOL Big AL
Yep the very same !  And I just installed the mirrors I got from you at the same time. They work awesome and don't even shake while driving.


Once you replace everything that is attached to something else. It will all be fixed.

 Posted: Sep 10, 2017 05:30AM
Total posts: 1766
Last post: Oct 18, 2017
Member since:May 28, 2012
WeirdEh:

Is that the same mini l sold you 10-12 years ago?

If so, l think my warranty just expired. LOL

Big AL

austinmorris@xplornet.ca

Niagara Ontario Canada

 Posted: Sep 7, 2017 08:07AM
Total posts: 13298
Last post: Oct 19, 2017
Member since:Jan 22, 2003
CA
Have your daughter....or whoever....record from the sidelines.  Would love to see your runs

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Sep 7, 2017 06:47AM
Total posts: 1658
Last post: Sep 10, 2017
Member since:Apr 21, 2004
Sorry Spitz no in car video. the first run I forgot to start the camera and on the second run it failed to see enough movement to start recording. then at the end of the run there was steam and the temp gauge was not working and this is a fresh rebuild engine with less then an hour run time. so I parked it for the rest of the event and drove my daughters mini. 

maybe the next one.

BTW the new temp sending unit came in yesterday, installed now will see what happens


Once you replace everything that is attached to something else. It will all be fixed.

 Posted: Aug 31, 2017 03:02PM
Total posts: 1658
Last post: Sep 10, 2017
Member since:Apr 21, 2004
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spitz
Damn......I've not been able to autocroos/slalom for 3 yrs now.  We lost the use of the venue.
I will post in-car video for you  
 


Once you replace everything that is attached to something else. It will all be fixed.

 Posted: Aug 31, 2017 01:22PM
Total posts: 13298
Last post: Oct 19, 2017
Member since:Jan 22, 2003
CA
Damn......I've not been able to autocroos/slalom for 3 yrs now.  We lost the use of the venue.

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Aug 30, 2017 02:40PM
Total posts: 1658
Last post: Sep 10, 2017
Member since:Apr 21, 2004
OK so I did all of the above.
I changed the float lid
moved the fuel line. ( I noticed that it was sometimes binding the throttle )
filed the bottom of the master cylinder
made an adjustable dog bone with a turnbuckle ( I cut an old lower engine steady for the "cups")
so I now have almost a 1/4 of an inch clearance.

should be good to go for the auto slalom on Monday!


Once you replace everything that is attached to something else. It will all be fixed.

 Posted: Aug 24, 2017 06:13AM
Total posts: 7217
Last post: Oct 19, 2017
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
Quote:
Originally Posted by WeirdEh
Correct. They are fed from one line. I came in from the middle with the thought that it may prevent one carb getting more fuel. Not sure it really matters. I hope to get back at it tonight and will try a little bit of everything. I will grind a bit off of the master, but not too much for fear of cutting through. The try and wiggle the master back a bit. I can turn the float cover to get maybe a bit of clearance but I think the boss on the master is deep enough to still push on the bowl itself.and finally I have a dog bone that I will add about 1/2 inch too.
I do have the one lower steady but I think I can force the 1/2 inch without having to slot the holes.

Oh and I am not that happy with the pancake filters either bought them because I thought they looked more period correct and not so much boy racer with the K&N. Oh well maybe next year I will get a set for my birthday
You may not need a full 1/2". Remove your engine steady and see how much you really need as the clearance is closest when idling or in reverse, when accelerating the engine pulls towards the front of the car. You may want to add the upper stabilizer bar that connects to the thermostat studs and bulkhead you could probably get 1/4" clearance with that one and leave the factory one alone.
A float lid from a H 2 carb might work on the carb closest to the master cylinder.

If in doubt, flat out . Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

 Posted: Aug 23, 2017 04:17PM
Total posts: 13298
Last post: Oct 19, 2017
Member since:Jan 22, 2003
CA
One carb will not get more fuel than the other .... the float / valve ensures that

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Aug 23, 2017 11:54AM
Total posts: 1658
Last post: Sep 10, 2017
Member since:Apr 21, 2004
Correct. They are fed from one line. I came in from the middle with the thought that it may prevent one carb getting more fuel. Not sure it really matters. I hope to get back at it tonight and will try a little bit of everything. I will grind a bit off of the master, but not too much for fear of cutting through. The try and wiggle the master back a bit. I can turn the float cover to get maybe a bit of clearance but I think the boss on the master is deep enough to still push on the bowl itself.and finally I have a dog bone that I will add about 1/2 inch too.
I do have the one lower steady but I think I can force the 1/2 inch without having to slot the holes.

Oh and I am not that happy with the pancake filters either bought them because I thought they looked more period correct and not so much boy racer with the K&N. Oh well maybe next year I will get a set for my birthday


Once you replace everything that is attached to something else. It will all be fixed.

 Posted: Aug 23, 2017 11:41AM
Total posts: 7217
Last post: Oct 19, 2017
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spitz
a longer upper steady may work, but if you have lower steady(s) you may have to slot them
im running twin hs4 in a CA MINI also, mine is a 77 so a slightly different master cyl than yours
there were also a variety of lids for floats bowls for different applications.  Perhaps another lid might work.
if the front carb is you fuel intake, maybe it could be swapped so the rear one is the intake in other words switching lids
Looking at the pics posted with the copper fuel line coming through the center point of the two carbs i would think they are fed fuel from the center with two fuel inlets being inlets only and not the usual set up with one lid being the in and out for fuel.

If in doubt, flat out . Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

 Posted: Aug 23, 2017 09:09AM
Total posts: 13298
Last post: Oct 19, 2017
Member since:Jan 22, 2003
CA
a longer upper steady may work, but if you have lower steady(s) you may have to slot them
im running twin hs4 in a CA MINI also, mine is a 77 so a slightly different master cyl than yours
there were also a variety of lids for floats bowls for different applications.  Perhaps another lid might work.
if the front carb is you fuel intake, maybe it could be swapped so the rear one is the intake in other words switching lids

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Aug 22, 2017 08:42AM
Total posts: 7217
Last post: Oct 19, 2017
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
There are quite a few different types. The cone K&N type flow well as do the ITG but not sure on availability for the HS2's. The regular paper ones that are about twice as deep as the pancakes are an improvement. I like the cone ones as they tend to take up less room and work well on LHD cars with the master cylinder issues.

If in doubt, flat out . Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

 Posted: Aug 22, 2017 08:14AM
Total posts: 21
Last post: Oct 18, 2017
Member since:Jul 28, 2016
Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
As stated those are HS4's and you do have the correct angle inlet manifold. If the carb float lid is hitting the master cylinder you could change it for a different one as there are several different types.
If not an adjustable or longer engine steady will work, the later 90's cars had longer engine steady's as the engine was moved forward 1 inch to help with carb clearance problems with the HIF.
FWIW those pancake filters you are using are very restrictive and you will not get the full potential out of the carbs with them installed.
malsal, I have similar pancakes on my car—albeit with dual HS2s, not HS4s—what do you recommend in their place?

 Posted: Aug 22, 2017 04:47AM
Total posts: 3517
Last post: Oct 19, 2017
Member since:Oct 8, 2011
US
Sorry the one I worked on had a bean can master. Looks like you have HS 4 s on a intake without spacers. Later sub frames did move the engine 1/2 inch forward and a longer dog bone. I have buckets of SU carb float bowl lids. I have seen float bowls modified to allow them to rotate rather than held at 20 or 30 degrees. I'd have a go at the master with a grinder. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Aug 21, 2017 09:51PM
Total posts: 7217
Last post: Oct 19, 2017
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
As stated those are HS4's and you do have the correct angle inlet manifold. If the carb float lid is hitting the master cylinder you could change it for a different one as there are several different types.
If not an adjustable or longer engine steady will work, the later 90's cars had longer engine steady's as the engine was moved forward 1 inch to help with carb clearance problems with the HIF.
FWIW those pancake filters you are using are very restrictive and you will not get the full potential out of the carbs with them installed.

If in doubt, flat out . Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

 Posted: Aug 21, 2017 07:25PM
mur
Total posts: 5681
Last post: Oct 8, 2017
Member since:Nov 12, 1999
A longer upper engine steady arm may be a good idea for what you are doing. 

 Posted: Aug 21, 2017 05:53PM
Total posts: 1658
Last post: Sep 10, 2017
Member since:Apr 21, 2004
So the manifold is right for a mini then.
And the air cleaners clear fine. It is the float hitting that worries me. 
If there is any engine movement at all it will snap it I am sure. I will try and move the master away, but not sure if there is any play on the bolt holes.


Once you replace everything that is attached to something else. It will all be fixed.

 Posted: Aug 21, 2017 05:28PM
 Edited:  Aug 21, 2017 07:02PM
Total posts: 8521
Last post: Oct 18, 2017
Member since:Jun 5, 2000
US
Those look like HS2s.  The manifold number is for a Mk3 -S.

I defer to others on the fit of those aftermarket air filters with/around your brake master.

EDIT:  My cat sat on the keyboard and entered about 100 carriage returns.  Darn cat.
On closer examination... those are probably HS4 carbs.  Google for images.  The HS2s will appear narrower and taller than what is shown in your pictures.


Doug L.
 Posted: Aug 21, 2017 04:02PM
Total posts: 1658
Last post: Sep 10, 2017
Member since:Apr 21, 2004
Image Gallery
Not sure why I still get confused on what carb is what carb. 
pretty sure I have a set of 1.5 hs2 carbs that is what the guy said when I bought them and that is the rebuild kit I bought and everything seemed to fit.

the manifold has 12 g 2463 stamped on it.

in the up loaded photo does the master look to be on wrong? and is that an hs2 carb


Once you replace everything that is attached to something else. It will all be fixed.

Found 23 Messages

Previous Set of Pages 1 | 2