I don't understand where you plan to add material.  Do post pictures showing what you do.

Thanks - Yes, my lock plate is adjusted as far as it will go. I have a spare plate and plan to drill and thread a small hole  to attach a slug of aluminum, effectively extending the face of the second catch stage by a quarter inch. This should be trivial to do and I will report back after final adjustment
Steve

Hi Steve, Your lock plate on the pillar should adjust in and out, I know I have adjusted my 62, but didn't take a close look at what allows for movement. you may need to open up the slots to get the movement you need or slot the latch plates. The problem I had was the lock latch stuck out too far, making the door hard to shut, had to grind it down, and re-radius it to fit, works fine now, sounds like an old latch locker fridge. Hand build cars, you get what you get, or make it right with a total strip rebuild + years.

Foolishly thinking it would take an hour or so, I started work on my drivers door adjustment. Though I had to extend the holes in my A panel a bit, I am now happy to say that I have a fairly even gap around the door with no areas touching the body that shouldn't be.

My problem is that the two stage door locking plate on the door pillar will not move back far enough to allow the door to shut flush with the body. Looks like I need about another 1/8" to 1/4" of movement. The lock plate is new from MM and the holes in the pillar perfect. The captive threaded plate seems to be fully encapsulated meaning I cannot take them out to open up the holes in the pillar and get more movement.

The door lock cannot move so I am apparently left with the idea that I need to either find a replacement locking plate with slots rather than holes/holes further forward, superglue a shim on the second lock position, or I need to modify the new plate.

Anybody else have this problem and/or know the best way to solve it?

Steve