The very late cars moved the engine forward by a half inch. There are some dog bones that are longer than the early cars. I assembled a single HS 6 intake system for a friend to run his car till he got his twins rebuilt. It seems that most of the single carb intakes were designed for later shells which have a deeper recess in the cross member. Like yours his was very tight on the cross member.  I don't think he was ever able to run it for fear of breaking something. I also tried a HIF 44 and it rubbed the cross member worse than the HS 6. Why don't you consider twin HS 4s or even HS 2s 

As for on car adjustable, you will need to work with some left hand threads. I have a 1/2 fine left hand tap but never bought a left hand die. The tap was bought to make on car adjustable tie rods for castor adjustment. Using LH Rose joints I didn't have to cut any male threads. Steve (CTR)

MSSK 1305 is adjustable but no on car. 

I"ve got a HIF 6 on a 1300 and it's on the bulkhead less the thickness of a cardboard.  I've been told that the automatic engine steady is a tad longer and might give me the clearance I need.  I have one on the way. If not, I'll cut one and weld  it with some tube nuts, jam nuts and threaded rods.  gotta figure out how It will adjust with the fixed ends in place.

OneTim

Where about's are you? 

I just swapped out my dog-bone to an adjustable one and can mail you mine.  

I had mine on a 1275 A+ and reason for swapping it to an adjustable one was my HiF44 carb was rubbing ever so slightly on my bulkhead. Nothing crazy, but not optimal. 
I sourced my adjustable from MiniSpares and it was heaps cheaper, even with shipping. I picked it up when I needed some other parts to help offset the shipping. 

Notes on my DogBone:  It fits but it's not pretty.  I have a feeling at some point mine was actually for a 998 and lengthened.  It looks a little butchered up but it's solid, rust free, and held my engine steady for the past 3 years! 

Shoot me an e-mail if interested... should be in my profile.

I must say I was thinking bad things about you when you complained about the cost of a new upper steady..... until I looked .... How the hell can they can they ask $130+ for something like that.  As Mur says, any Mini person will probably have half a dozen somewhere in the shed for the price of a beer... 

At worst, Minispares will sell you and adjustable one for $30ish ...and a bit of shipping...

Cheers, Ian

hehe I show up as an unsophisticated savage from quite a distance with bondo fabricated flairs and 13 inch wheels the PO installed, If only I could open a beer bottle with my teeth! I agree with the smoothness thing, had a sticky throttle cable when first assembled, was a nightmare. Thanks for the tips, I will look into the left side upper steady.

Everything for a mini is expensive. Visiting my storage unit I noticed a pickup ( not mini ) parked behind the next unit, clearly a junker ( popular hobby around here the evening before big truck pickup ) with a mini clutch housing and header in the back. Looks like the clutch housing got in the way when a hammer flywheel puller was applied though the starter hole ( well almost thought the hole ) and the header had rubbed the inner yoke joint till it made a hole in both down pipes LCB. I still can't find out where he picked that stuff up. Some one that close to me is breaking mini parts I should know. Steve (CTR)

Oh yeah, I have all three lowers and they don't help that much. I use the latest Evo dog bone bushings. The front upper while not nice looking does get the job done.  When I last installed my power unit I figured the std rear upper, the std ( later cars ) lower front then add the two lower rear facing would handle things just fine. Using the late Evo bushings all around it was fine at first. I need to do some checking as the whole mess is walking around under the car. Be glad you don't have three different grades of sub frame mount and the combos that can lead to.  

There is an upper dog bone in every box of mini parts everywhere in everyone's basement.

I am sure someone has a slightly more modern one to give you, or you can fabricate one in minutes.

Rod change boxes are very difficult to hold in place. That is why some folks judge you to be an unsophisticated savage when you put one into a car earlier than a mid MK III. You will pick up on their judgemental judgementy-ness when they hand you a beer but you have to open it yourself. They really only want what is best for you but don't want to harsh your vibe by telling you straight up that you're totally doing it wrong.

The additional upper steady that goes between the front of the cylinder head and the bulkhead can certainly help. I find they are more effective than lower steady bars on the gearbox.

Rubber is fine.

No matter what, you do need to learn to drive smoothly. It sort of helps. A bit.

Wow, upper dog bones are kinda pricey, thinking I will buy mini m # MSSK1 lower left kit, and a second lower bar # 21A2787 to make an adjustable upper out of, as this is a rod type gear shift. Thoughts on rubber vs poly bushes for a street car?

It may have had fresh bushings or I purchased what was available from our host and they fit correctly, I have another dog bone that is an old cast iron break away unit, but it has some metal loss from corrosion, sounds like a modern replacement is in order. Thank you.

If your dog bone has two different ends it is very early. Where did you find the bushings for it? I have a couple for disply but don't use that type any longer. Steve (CTR)

I run a little rich so with the carbon buildup it's a little smaller than a 1275, or my dislexia has reared its happy head again. Could also explain my problem with the engine steady.

I think it's possible I have my upper engine steady the wrong way round and am banging on the bulkhead. Which way does the larger round end go, to bulkhead bracket or engine? This is a 62 cooper with A+ 1257, and I think an early steady bar. Thanks in advance for the help.