there are two types of Vavoline VR1:

"VR1" - low ZDDP to protect catalytic converters

"VR1 Racing" - high ZDDP for old tappet style engines

Any opinions on Brad Penn, which I have been running for many years?

We are currently doing our own oil testing research at our shop. Castrol GTX and Valvoline VR1 were both too low on zinc for our push rod engines. Redline race oil was good. Dean is getting the Gibbs oil tested and the next oil on my list to test is Amzoil. Camshield makes an additive to bring the zinc levels up where they should be for our engines.  It doesn't take much but going through the testing gives you solid information, no more wondering which oil we should be running. 

I appreciate all the info I'm gleening in this thread.  


Anyone have a name brand for some zddp products? 

stateside?


east coast market

Mineral rather than synthetic, with oodles of fast-burn ZDDP in the break in oil and sensible amounts in the normal oil.

When we were vintage racing we would break in on high zinc break in oil and go to Red line, of course we had no synchros to be concerned about. As for street engines no matter size I build, then break in on my engine test stand. This allows me to check O2, EGR, OP, WT, FP, RPM, vacuum, timing, dwell and anything else I can hook up to one. Small to large leaks, weeps and drips are so much easier to locate and repair.

I did grab a case of semi synthetic by mistake and tried it in my personal mini. It very quickly developed a leak. I firmly believe I can build a engine/tranny combo that will keep the oil in. I was talking with another east coast engine builder recently. When talking about break in and follow up oil it seems he uses Royal Purple break in followed by complete change to 10/40 fully synthetic.

Building street engines as opposed to full race units clearance figures can be a lot tighter. I have been talking with my machinist about tightening up crank figures and going to a thinner oil. Looking at building son Alex a nice 998 for our mini. The 1360 Cooper S currently in the car is a little much for a first time driver. Also I'd like to get that unit back in engine test stand and see if I can get the oil to stay in place. 

I used Rotella till they removed the zinc. All the local stores placed their ZR1 on sale and you can't seem to find it now. I'm not sure what I think of adding as little as 1 qt of synthetic. Steve (CTR)

alex, is that 15 50 synthetic?

Joe Gibbs 15w50 is looking like the oil of choice based on early testing in a couple of engines.

Synthetic is also very good at finding places to leak or leak more in Mini engines that have a lot of miles on them.

I thought I remembered something like that. thanks.

After draining the conventional break-in oil @ 500 miles in my new 1380 I began using a high quality 20w-50 synthetic w/ zinc. I'm a big believer in synthetic, but I soon began to notice the synchros were not doing their job. Next oil change I went to 4 qts. of synthetic and 1 qt. conventional oil. The syncs were behaving better, but not great. Next oil change was 3 qts. synthetic and 2 qts. conventional. Syncs were even better, but not as good as they were with the conventional break-in oil. I'm currently at 1 qt. synthetic and 4 qts. conventional and the syncs are back to normal. 

Jet Motors has a YouTube vid recommending 20w-50 Amsoil synthetic. He says the viscosity of the Amsoil appears to be much thicker than other synthetics and therefore the synchros "bite" the way would with conventional oil. Go figure. I'm going to give Amsoil a try. I'd very much like to run 100% synthetic in my new motor.

I'm sure this has been discussed but can not locate an article in the search engine. Likely because I've not phrased it right.


Any caveats as to not using full synthetic oil in a mini?   I sort of think it will not be good for the gearbox.


and what about switching to synthetic for older engines ?