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 Posted: May 16, 2017 05:03PM
Total posts: 41
Last post: May 29, 2017
Member since:Jul 25, 2016
Freeflow manifold and RC40 side exit exhaust system it is. My car did not have the original header - which I believe would be tough to fit on this particular engine in the series 1.
Thanks for all of the help
Steve

 Posted: May 16, 2017 11:28AM
Total posts: 9327
Last post: May 29, 2017
Member since:Mar 24, 1999
GB

Maniflow magic pipe with an RC40.

There's precious little wrong with the exhaust manifold as standard (ignoring the heat soak into the inlet for a moment which actually helps prevent carb icing) it's the exhaust pipe that rubbish.

I've had some very good results on some wild 998s using the std exhaust and the magic-pipe adaptor.  All the ease of a single clamp fixing with no Y-piece to fart about with, no contraction of the outer branches of a tubular manifold, and not clearance issues.  It's also quiet in the cabin as the cast iron absorbs a large amount of sound.

Metric is for people who can't do fractions...

 Posted: May 16, 2017 10:18AM
Total posts: 7056
Last post: May 26, 2017
Member since:Aug 14, 2002
CA
Freeflow + RC40 but not with the tapered tailpipe. To me it slows the flow of exhaust and doesn't expel it as well as a straight tail pipe. 

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: May 16, 2017 10:12AM
Total posts: 9919
Last post: May 29, 2017
Member since:Dec 3, 2002
US
Certainly the Freeflow. And the RC40 side exit. Go for the two box unless you like lots of noise inside when running down the highway.

If you have someone else hang the exhaust system, make sure they do not get carried away with the welding. Don't weld the header to the exhaust pipe.

 Posted: May 15, 2017 08:28PM
Total posts: 5798
Last post: May 27, 2017
Member since:Mar 9, 1999
I concur. Cooper Freeflow manifold. The LCB's just give you 2 more places to leak and hook things that you drive over.

As for exhaust, the standard RC40 side exit is nice. 

IMHO, do NOT bother with the stock exhaust hangers made of rubber bobbins-- you'll be replacing them in very short order.

Get it all installed and then bring it to an exhaust shop and have the do some custom hangers. You pay want to have them weld up the RC40 rear muffler/resonator and the upstream pipe into one piece to again eliminate one more place they leak and snag stuff.


http://www.minimania.com/part/RC40PACKAGE001/Exhaust-Rc40-Classic-Exhaust-Mild-Steel-And-Fitting-Kit

 Posted: May 15, 2017 06:55PM
Total posts: 3599
Last post: May 29, 2017
Member since:Jun 23, 2000
US
 Posted: May 15, 2017 05:16PM
mur
Total posts: 5588
Last post: May 23, 2017
Member since:Nov 12, 1999
You want a C-STR816 freeflow header.

Now, forty years have passed since drive couplings were sold on a mini or variant, and having the header clear them can be an issue. This header may fit fine. 998/1098 blocks are not as tall as 1300 blocks, and most headers are just made for 1300s with pot joint type inner CVs. So, you want the header to clear the couplings AND not hang down too far.

You could find a cast metro twin outlet exhaust manifold and make your own downpipes, they are simple flanges that any competent exhaust shop can fabricate out of stock. 

Still, the freeflow header may be sufficient right out of the packaging, and that would be simplest. 

 Posted: May 15, 2017 05:00PM
Total posts: 41
Last post: May 29, 2017
Member since:Jul 25, 2016
 To recap, I have a relatively stock MG1100 motor in a series 1 mini. The car will not be raced, but I want it to look stock (straight - not side exit) but sound "meaty". I have removed the existing tubular headers which are in a sorry state so will replace them at the same time.

The car also has a floor starter, nylon tipped roller bearing versions of the rubber drive joints and also has a nice aftermarket aluminum intake. 

I want to keep the price at a "budget" level having already invested heavily in rebuilding the motor so can I get recommendations?

Thanks all
Steve