Head Gasket Failure
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As others have said, bin the cheapo nyloc nuts. you want real grade 8 head nuts.
Kevin G
1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.
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[tangent: I brought up the 112g940 head because there's a mismatch of water jacket sizes between small bores and large bores and for THAT I can maybe understand some sort of jacket sealant. Plus as I recall a small bore gasket on a large bore head had the fire ring hanging over the sealing edge and halfway into the head chamber. But it's been a while since I have looked at it. Nevertheless if that were the case, fire ring hanging into the burn chamber, that makes the blowout/burnthrough all the more understandable. But, as was made clear, this isn't a big bore head so all of this here parenthetical drivel is simply some internet idiot trying to hang his knowledge-sack out for all to admire, not unlike some other forum contributors]
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If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch
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Also, I've harped about this before... head gaskets out of England have been neutered by what I can only guess are the asbestos lawyers. In particular, the small bore type. The ONLY gasket I really trusted was the Australian C-AEA647, and it's no longer available.
I have not tried the 'Rover Black Composite type'.... Way more expensive, but so is the work of doing it again! Anyone try these?
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Additional note about Husky tools from Home Depot: as I was buying a bunch of them for a Road Kit our club prepared as a raffle gift, the checkout lady told me, "These are guaranteed for life, just like Snap-On, so if something breaks, bring it back and get a new one, no questions asked." Another advantage is that wrenches and sockets can be bought individually, not in the sets sold at, say, Ace Hdwe.
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Trying to torque down anything using nyloc nuts is about as much use as doing them up finger tight - you're only measuring the grip of the nylon on the studs...
Buy some proper head nuts (or even just some grade 8 nuts and hard washers) and put it back together again with a shiny new gasket without any additional product.
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Regardless, MustangMechanic, don't use RTV on the head gasket. I have used copper coat on laminated copper gaskets for non-Mini cars but I have always put A- and B-series heads on "dry" as Spank said.
If your new stud kit does not include nuts, look at the ARP nuts from Summit that I mentioned earlier. The thru hardened washers from BP Northwest that I mentioned are optional and beneficial when you are using "plain" hex nuts. If you buy the ARP nuts, they have flanges so hardened washers aren't really needed.
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And looking again... that gasket doesn't even take up the whole head surface.
What is your head casting number? I'm gonna guess it's 12G940...
If my guess is right, you should be using a large bore gasket. But let's not go there, yet. Just report back what your head casting number is and post up a pic of the block surface, too. [edit-- my guess was WRONG]
Speaking in generalities-- you do NOT put anything on a new modern head gasket. Put it on dry and clean.
We all have our own superstitions for how to torque it up and what socks we should be wearing and whether nor not we should be wearing lace-up or velcro shoes while torquing the head down. Personally, I like to get it all torqued down with NO coolant in it. Then start it up and let it run til it's warm to the touch. Maybe a minute maybe 3. Let it normalize for like 15 min. Then do a hot retorque. Then let it cool fully. Then add coolant. My theory is that the shellac or coating on the gasket gets warm and mushy and the retorque pushes the goop to fill in any miniscule voids.
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It appears to me that you do not have an 850 cyl. head. It appears to be a 295 or a 206 casting. It also looks like some work has been done on it and it may be surfaced quite a bit. CC the chambers and do the math as to compression ratio. In the 60 s I built a very strong 850 with a 295 cyl. head and twin 1 1/4 SUs.
Yesterday I went for a ride in a early Lotus Seven that I built the 948 Sprite engine in. We followed the same build sheet as my old 850. Granted with 998 pistons on the new press fit rods it is in the 1015 CC range now while the 850 was only .060 O/S. While the engine in the Lotus had been built by a race shop, I could not understand the 7.8 to 1 C/R std cam and only turning to high 4 s low 5 s. Yesterday it cranked first touch of starter button once warmed up it sounded perfect and revs cleanly to 7000 ( all his tach goes ) I told him I suspect it will keep pulling to 8000 plus. I also suggested he keep it on scale.
I have an 850 coming in today for a rebuild, it will also get a four synchro converted to magic wand tranny. New head hardware is on the parts list and block and head will both be surfaced. Steve (CTR)
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I bought the digital readout shown in the Amazon link below. I compared the output of this device to the calibration standards we have at work. I was very pleasantly surprised at how accurate it was. If you need to buy a torque wrench, this is a good alternative for 90% of the jobs on the Mini.
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARM602-4-Audible-batteries-included/dp/B004VYURT0
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I thought you replaced the carb with twin HS2's not 4's ? These would not be the cause of gasket failure.
What is that copper looking substance in the water ways some kind of radiator sealant ?
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
Found 27 Messages