Goofy Fuel Gauge
Created by: Rosebud
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Apr 20, 2017 03:21AM | dklawson | |
Apr 19, 2017 04:45PM | Rosebud | Edited: Apr 19, 2017 04:56PM |
Apr 19, 2017 04:25PM | Rosebud | |
Apr 19, 2017 11:44AM | armycook | |
Apr 19, 2017 11:41AM | Spitz | |
Apr 19, 2017 08:46AM | dklawson | Edited: Apr 19, 2017 08:47AM |
Apr 19, 2017 03:36AM | armycook | Edited: Apr 19, 2017 03:37AM |
Apr 19, 2017 02:47AM | dklawson | |
Apr 19, 2017 01:52AM | armycook | |
Apr 19, 2017 01:47AM | nkerr | |
Apr 19, 2017 01:05AM | armycook | |
Apr 18, 2017 07:54PM | Rosebud | Edited: Apr 19, 2017 07:44AM |
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Michael, that looks more like a fuel cell than a fuel tank. Very pretty.
Since your gauge is reading in reverse it probably has a sending unit matching the old GM calibration (0 Ohms = Empty to 90 Ohms = Full).
Do not try just any fuel sending unit. The post 1964 Mini sending units and gauges have a calibration that goes from nominally 270 Ohms = Empty to 30 Ohms = Full. You won't find that exact rating for the generic sending units but you WILL find them in the range of 240 Ohms to 33 Ohms. That's the one you want. With that sending unit range your gauge will read empty a bit early but consider that a safety margin or reserve.
Since your gauge is reading in reverse it probably has a sending unit matching the old GM calibration (0 Ohms = Empty to 90 Ohms = Full).
Do not try just any fuel sending unit. The post 1964 Mini sending units and gauges have a calibration that goes from nominally 270 Ohms = Empty to 30 Ohms = Full. You won't find that exact rating for the generic sending units but you WILL find them in the range of 240 Ohms to 33 Ohms. That's the one you want. With that sending unit range your gauge will read empty a bit early but consider that a safety margin or reserve.
Doug L.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dklawson
The later senders can only go in the tank one way.
Does your fuel sending unit bolt to the tank (early design) or is it secured with a bayonet locking ring (later cars). This is important for figuring out what's going on.
Does your fuel sending unit bolt to the tank (early design) or is it secured with a bayonet locking ring (later cars). This is important for figuring out what's going on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dklawson
Gauge Wizard Link:
https://www.spiyda.com/magento/index.php/fuel-gauge-wizard-mk3.html
- 3. Order the Gauge Wizard from Spiyda Design in the U.K. Their Gauge Wizard will allow you to match different sending units and gauges that would otherwise be incompatible.
Gauge Wizard Link:
https://www.spiyda.com/magento/index.php/fuel-gauge-wizard-mk3.html
The Spiyda Gauge-Wizard looks like a possibility. Although, I might just try another generic sending unit rather than fiddling w/ the Spiyda. They're surprisingly cheap. On the other hand, E -> F isn't too hard to convert. My odometer conversion will require a little more thought.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nkerr
is your sender mounted in the tank upside down?
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Thanks Doug. I do plan on getting a bigger tank anyway/
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Left hand tanks, 5.5 gal and 7.5 gal, should be had fairly cheaply......it's the righty that is pricey
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
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If you have the bolt-on sending unit, it is not compatible with the later bimetallic fuel gauge. The early sending unit has both the wrong resistance range and changes resistance in the wrong direction to be used with later fuel gauges. You have a handful of choices.
Gauge Wizard Link:
https://www.spiyda.com/magento/index.php/fuel-gauge-wizard-mk3.html
- 1. Get an old fuel gauge. However, finding one that will look OK with your magnolia gauges will be both expensive and probably never be a good color match.
- 2. Buy a later fuel tank complete with its bayonet ring mounted sending unit. This will be easy but could be expensive. However, a working bolt-on sending unit has value and will offset the cost of buying a new tank and sending unit.
- 3. Order the Gauge Wizard from Spiyda Design in the U.K. Their Gauge Wizard will allow you to match different sending units and gauges that would otherwise be incompatible.
Gauge Wizard Link:
https://www.spiyda.com/magento/index.php/fuel-gauge-wizard-mk3.html
Doug L.
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Hi Doug! Mine is early. But my Speedo binnacle is brand new bought as a set (130mph) I don't know where he PO got it.
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The later senders can only go in the tank one way.
Does your fuel sending unit bolt to the tank (early design) or is it secured with a bayonet locking ring (later cars). This is important for figuring out what's going on.
Does your fuel sending unit bolt to the tank (early design) or is it secured with a bayonet locking ring (later cars). This is important for figuring out what's going on.
Doug L.
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it must be. my last cooper was doing the same but opposite. i figured mehh ill just leave this one alone. but i'll check.
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is your sender mounted in the tank upside down?
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Mine is In the middle when Full and goes towards full when about to be empty. I don't wanna mess it up so I just carry a wooden dipstick.
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Ever since installation my fuel gauge has read backwards. I thought it might just be a polarity issue so I tried switching the 2 wires on the sending unit around. No change. I know it doesn't make any sense, but I tried swapping the wires around on the gauge as well. Still no change. Any suggestions? I tell my passengers that "E" stands for "Extremely Full" and "F" is for "Fuel Needed." It's a British thing...