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 Posted: Apr 6, 2017 02:01PM
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Tell tale indicators are a bit old hat these days. Mine has a replay button.  I don't know how long it records as its a feature I've not thought worth pursuing ...

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Apr 6, 2017 07:32AM
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US
Rev limiters are handy for competition like autocrossing where one has no time to look at a tach.

The tell-tale arm is especially handy in situations like Alex's when someone else is driving your car!

 Posted: Apr 6, 2017 07:21AM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by nkerr 

With modern electronic ignitions, wouldn't it be easy to include an ignition cut-out at the red line, rather than rely entirely on a painted on line?

What you are describing sounds very much like a rev limiter.  

Doug L.
 Posted: Apr 6, 2017 06:58AM
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With modern electronic ignitions, wouldn't it be easy to include an ignition cut-out at the red line, rather than rely entirely on a painted on line?

 Posted: Apr 6, 2017 06:37AM
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GB
Probably not, most tell-tale rev-counters are motorsport oriented and the red line is usually a bit of tape.
My driver keeps forgetting that I have a tell-tale installed...

 Posted: Apr 6, 2017 05:22AM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by minimans
Some of the two arm ones are of the tell tale type, they go up but do not return (Who's a naughty boy then) until returned manually.............
Oh, right! I haven't seen one of those.  But wouldn't such a tack also be marked for red-line?

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Apr 5, 2017 03:13PM
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Some of the two arm ones are of the tell tale type, they go up but do not return (Who's a naughty boy then) until returned manually.............

Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch

 Posted: Apr 5, 2017 01:01PM
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CA
Yeah, I was bored. But I was thinging of other people, who have only seen tachs with pre-printed red lines. Tachs in modern cars are about as common as cigar lighters ( maybe more common).

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Apr 5, 2017 07:07AM
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GB

^

Unless you were bored Dan, that was a waste of typing as he'll pay no attention to it at all.

It's like trying to educate effluent.

 Posted: Apr 5, 2017 04:49AM
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CA
Many older tachometers and most after-market tachs are not marked for rev limit - e.g red scale above a certain point, because they are intended to be fitted to a variety of engines that have various maximum rpms. The red needle does is adjustable to show max desired rpm, but does not move in operation.  For example, I have a tach on my desk that can be used for 4-, 6-, or 8-cylinder engines, positive or negative ground. My desk is positive ground and the rev limit is currently set to  4200rpm, which is what my first Mini, a stock 848cc was capable of.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Apr 4, 2017 01:02PM
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first time i saw a tachometer with two arms...

 Posted: Mar 27, 2017 02:46AM
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US
Forgive the following question.  Are you sure you have the tach's sense wire on coil (-)?  It needs to be on the distributor side of the coil, not the supply side.

From memory, the late model Caerbont tachs have two sense wires to connect to the ignition system. You are supposed to chose one for points, the other for electronic ignition.  When you look to see which wire your tach is using, don't hesitate to try the other sense wire... in spite of what the instructions say. You won't hurt anything.  You may find you need to try all four possible combinations of switch settings and wire connections.

I would also send an email to Caerbont explaining what is going on.  Tell them what ignition system you have, what sense wire is connected (and where) and what your switch settings are.  They can be slow responding but they do answer emails.

Doug L.
 Posted: Mar 26, 2017 06:37PM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by dklawson
Is this a late tach or an older one with a face swap...
It's a new one w/ dip switches. All of the switches are in the correct position. I have the instructions. I'll be looking at the wiring tomorrow as I have signed up for a performance driving school on Tue. I'd really like the tach to be working by then. The car is new to me and since the tach has never worked, I really don't know what 6000 RPM sounds like. I'd prefer a working tach to shifting when I hear the valves float. Thanks! Will advise...

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports

 Posted: Mar 25, 2017 05:00AM
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US
Is this a late tach or an older one with a face swap?  The later gauges are made by Caerbont and they have a series of dip switches that have to be set correctly and there are additional wires to those mentioned by Alex.  You have to use the correct sense wire (to the coil) and set the switches correctly to make them work.  If this is a late model tach, do you have the instructions that came with it.

Doug L.
 Posted: Mar 24, 2017 11:50PM
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GB

Wiring one of those rev-counters in is a doddle, and only requires 2 maybe 3 wires to do it with an additional one for the internal light.

Check that there is a white/black wire from the gauge to the -ve terminal of the coil.

Look for a white wire to switched live.

You may have a black earth wire going to the body.

There should be red/white wire going to the bulb holder.

If all these are in place then you may have a dodgy gauge.

If it has been wired using the incorrect coloured wires then I#d be getting grumpy with the professional electrician.

 Posted: Mar 24, 2017 09:15PM
 Edited:  Mar 24, 2017 09:23PM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by dklawson
However, you have posted a picture of a voltmeter, not an ammeter...
Oops! Voltmeter. Right. The reason I'm asking is I'm trying to troubleshoot my new tach [link]. I had an auto electronics shop install it (along w/ some other behind the dash stuff) and it's never worked right. The shop claims the tach is defective. I doubt it, but it's possible I suppose.

I'm trying to relate it's behavior w/ the reading in the voltmeter. The tach works fine for the first 5 - 20 mins after starting in the morning (voltmeter reads 12.9v). After that it gets erratic (voltmeter reads 13.5). Sometimes it seems to read double, sometime half, sometimes it's all over the place. It freezes when the headlights are on. Makes me think it's voltage related. My regular Mini mechanic says he's dialed in my voltage regulator and it's working fine. I'll trace the wires and double check the connections next. If the wiring is correct and the connections are in order, what are my options beyond exchanging the tach for a new one? If I do swap it for a new one and the problem remains, what next?

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports

 Posted: Mar 24, 2017 03:30PM
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US
Ammeters measure the flow of current into and out of the battery excluding current used to operate the starter motor.  The "into" and "out of" is indicated by the + and - sides of the gauge's scale.  At rest (key in the off position) the needle is in the "middle" (no current flow in our out).

However, you have posted a picture of a voltmeter, not an ammeter.  A voltmeter will show the battery voltage when the key is in the run position and the engine is off.  When the engine is running the voltmeter shows the car's operating voltage.  If the alternator is working and the battery is taking a charge, the voltmeter should read 1V to 2V higher than it reads when the engine is off.

Doug L.
 Posted: Mar 24, 2017 02:42PM
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Q: What do our amp gauges measure:  (1) Total alternator output? (2) Current flowing TO the battery? (3) Current flowing FROM the battery? (4) Current available IN the battery? Thanks!

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports