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 Posted: Feb 21, 2017 05:01AM
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GB
Quote:
Originally Posted by specialist
I've once rev'd my mini past 9k rpm and it rev'd like a champ and like a charm( i love this american idiomatic expressions) and im using AAD which is a wrong needle but still. 

Mark my word,  your problem is electrical NOT fuel.....

You're not Donald Trump in disguise are you ?

Whatever, you've certainly reached the end of your restricted intellect though - so toddle off back to your own special place and keep your opinions to yourself there.

 Posted: Feb 20, 2017 11:54PM
 Edited:  Feb 21, 2017 12:12AM
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I've once rev'd my mini past 9k rpm and it rev'd like a champ and like a charm( i love this american idiomatic expressions) and im using AAD which is a wrong needle but still. 

Mark my word,  your problem is electrical NOT fuel.....

 Posted: Feb 20, 2017 09:18PM
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US
without rereading the 3 blogs refering to this  issue,  Did it ever run past 4K when you owned it?


Wondering if the carb has the wrong needle.

 Posted: Feb 20, 2017 03:19PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by specialist
i'm dedicated to help till the very last drop of my intellect.
too late

 Posted: Feb 20, 2017 02:28PM
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CA
What Bill said...
Quote:
Originally Posted by thewerewolf
grrrrrrrrrrrrrr.. the arm chair expert.. specialist    knows everything. about every mini..     like the holiday inn commercial today??

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Feb 20, 2017 01:32PM
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Well, if everyone turns their back and gave up on you, i won't, i'm dedicated to help till the very last drop of my intellect. Just be cautious of "some" who will try to offer you some money to buy your mini, and going to low ball you, beware... dont worry, there's always a rainbow after the rain... just be patient. we will get that mini running past 4000 rpm./ or probably the best thing to do is to avoid the main road with 50mph limit, and just drive on residential area and school with 15-25mph limit, honestly if you ask me, that's what i will do.

 Posted: Feb 20, 2017 01:12PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by croc7
The cynic in me is beginning to smell a rat.  I've been following this thread since the start, with the full intellect and experience of the members of this forum having been thrown at this problem with the same result; 'nope, didn't work, uh-uh, replaced that (name your component), didn't change', etc.  I think we're being played.  If not, I'll apologize.
apology accepted.  No joke.  after owning a 59 bugeye for years as a kid I would have never guessed I'd be stumped by this! But i am.  
It's crazy.  
Those who say - take it to a shop.  I feel ya.  But hardly anyone wants to take a look at all.  And if they do, they just want to start swapping parts like timing chains at the tune of $2400.  Or adjusting valves they admit were very close for $165+. 
It might be the town I live in has grown so fast, all the shops are just too busy to even want to deal with unusual things like this. 
Hoping to have some time early March to get some of the recent suggestions tackled. 

 Posted: Feb 20, 2017 09:52AM
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US
The cynic in me is beginning to smell a rat.  I've been following this thread since the start, with the full intellect and experience of the members of this forum having been thrown at this problem with the same result; 'nope, didn't work, uh-uh, replaced that (name your component), didn't change', etc.  I think we're being played.  If not, I'll apologize.

 Posted: Feb 17, 2017 03:02PM
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CA
A bent valve would stay bent and the symptoms would not go away. (And I don't want to know how someone could possibly overtighten an engine valve. Valve adjuster yes, but not a valve!)

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Feb 17, 2017 12:22PM
 Edited:  Feb 17, 2017 05:20PM
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Mountainlightmorning, have you adjusted your valve? if yes, my next question is, do you remember if you overtighten the valve adjuster? because i suspect if you did overtightened it, im looking at a bent exhaust or intake valve, a friend of mine had a bent valve and he had the same exact symptoms you have with his mini.... but you know which valve i'm talking about right? the vavle inside the engine touching the rocker arm.... not the valve in the tire, that's a different one.

 Posted: Feb 17, 2017 10:24AM
 Edited:  Feb 17, 2017 10:26AM
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US
and that sounds like a fuel issue.

Can you duplicate this issue when parked and running in neutral?

is there something grounding out when the engine is under load?  Electrical?

Is the engine rocking?  Bad motor mounts?

don't keep replacing stuff.   Find out what's wrong.

 Posted: Feb 16, 2017 07:01PM
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I normally push the clutch in. let of the gas- for about 2-3 seconds then proceed driving at lower speed.

The ground strap looks tight and secure. I will remove clean and replace. 

 Posted: Feb 16, 2017 06:15PM
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playing 30 questions again.  Not sure this is the latest thread.


Did you change the COIL?


The intermittent-ness that sorts itself out implies an electrical issue.  


Have you checked your ground strap on the engine? 

Engine to front subrframe.

 Posted: Feb 16, 2017 12:03PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morninglightmountain

springs

The engine sorts itself out after just a few seconds (or less) of coasting.

Does this mean foot off the gas , still in gear, and decelerating slowly and rpms falling slowly

or

Does it mean foot off the gas, in neutral or clutch in, and therefore rpms falling to idle speed quickly?

I do not have a quick solution, but clarification of the clue may be helpful to others

 Posted: Feb 15, 2017 08:11PM
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Thanks for the update MLM.

I am not sure if i asked before but when you did the valve springs were any of the valves replaced and/or did you do it with the head in place ?

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Feb 15, 2017 04:56PM
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answering a few questions real quick.

It has new pertronix dizzy with flamethrower coil.

if i remember right i installed the 185lb .495 list springs

The engine sorts itself out after just a few seconds (or less) of coasting.

I have replaced all flex fuel lines and used some 1/4" copper line for the hard line. also have a clear filter right in front of the carb. 

Malsal -I am going to try the valve clearance test after the failure asap. promise. 

I am enquiring about dyno shops in town that are willing to look at the car.



thanks fellas!

 Posted: Feb 15, 2017 12:58PM
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GB

I typed out a loooong reply at work earlier on, hit Submit, and the updated firewall laughed at me...
So, here we go again.

Not worried by the smoke or the "death rattle".  Smoke billows like that if you are stationary and have a minor exhaust leak or have been manhandling any part of the exhaust or manifold.  The rattle is probably the timing gear objecting to the misfire.

What dizzy are you running, and does it still have points ?


When the misfire occurs, how long does it take to return to normal running at the stumbly low rpm ?

Does the engine recover its normalness faster if switched off ?

Have you done a compression test while it is misfiring ?

If not, run it till it stumbles, switch off and quickly test the compression - that would eliminate the valve seat dropping out theory.

Have you checked the hard fuel line for impact damage or replaced the flexi lines ?

It almost sounds like fuel starvation, but only when the engine is asking for more over a sustained period than can be supplied.

 Posted: Feb 15, 2017 12:12PM
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It's still all guess work! Get the thing on a dyno and check it all at one go! fueling, Ign. and that death rattle before you blow the damn thing up.............................

Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch

 Posted: Feb 15, 2017 09:08AM
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Well regarding fuel, I did have a car once with a similar problem that turned out to be the fuel pump.  Only at high rpm.  I replaced the pump, with an electric one with a hidden ckt breaker, I could use for security and my problem went away.

 Posted: Feb 15, 2017 08:56AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Moffet
MLM:
Think about the symptoms - they occur more or less consistently above a certain rpm. That pretty much rules out a slipping or loose timing chain or any of the linkage to the valves or dizzy. If the chain slipped,it would stay slipped. If it is slack, it would have the same negative effect (late valve timing) at all rpms. Similarly a worn cam would always be worn. A broken valve spring would stay broken, etc.

A weak valve spring would show up as valve float above a certain rpm - it feels like you suddenly lifted your right foot, but would settle down again once you got below the rpm range.
A sticking exhaust valve would probably stay open, producing valve rattle and likely continue to overheat and get even more stuck. But it would occur once the valve got hot enough, and not at a consistent rpm. You might be able to replicate this situation by causing the engine to get very hot without getting to that rpm - block off the rad or work the engine hard uphill etc., staying out of that rpm range.
I'm still thinking it is a fuelling problem and/or a timing advance problem.
I was thinking fueling too Dan until i heard that death rattle in the video.

MLM strap that rocker cover on with a bungy cord (for quick release) if you have to and drive it down the road until the problem/noise occurs then check the valve clearances.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

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