4000rpm sputter New concise thread -youtube video of noise link
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Feb 21, 2017 05:01AM | Alex | |
Feb 20, 2017 11:54PM | specialist | Edited: Feb 21, 2017 12:12AM |
Feb 20, 2017 09:18PM | Minimike1 | |
Feb 20, 2017 03:19PM | h_lankford | |
Feb 20, 2017 02:28PM | Dan Moffet | |
Feb 20, 2017 01:32PM | specialist | |
Feb 20, 2017 01:12PM | Morninglightmountain | |
Feb 20, 2017 09:52AM | croc7 | |
Feb 17, 2017 03:02PM | Dan Moffet | |
Feb 17, 2017 12:22PM | specialist | Edited: Feb 17, 2017 05:20PM |
Feb 17, 2017 10:24AM | Minimike1 | Edited: Feb 17, 2017 10:26AM |
Feb 16, 2017 07:01PM | Morninglightmountain | |
Feb 16, 2017 06:15PM | Minimike1 | |
Feb 16, 2017 12:03PM | h_lankford | |
Feb 15, 2017 08:11PM | malsal | |
Feb 15, 2017 04:56PM | Morninglightmountain | |
Feb 15, 2017 12:58PM | Alex | |
Feb 15, 2017 12:12PM | minimans | |
Feb 15, 2017 09:08AM | kolsen | |
Feb 15, 2017 08:56AM | malsal |
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Mark my word, your problem is electrical NOT fuel.....
You're not Donald Trump in disguise are you ?
Whatever, you've certainly reached the end of your restricted intellect though - so toddle off back to your own special place and keep your opinions to yourself there.
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Mark my word, your problem is electrical NOT fuel.....
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Wondering if the carb has the wrong needle.
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.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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It's crazy.
Those who say - take it to a shop. I feel ya. But hardly anyone wants to take a look at all. And if they do, they just want to start swapping parts like timing chains at the tune of $2400. Or adjusting valves they admit were very close for $165+.
It might be the town I live in has grown so fast, all the shops are just too busy to even want to deal with unusual things like this.
Hoping to have some time early March to get some of the recent suggestions tackled.
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.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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Can you duplicate this issue when parked and running in neutral?
is there something grounding out when the engine is under load? Electrical?
Is the engine rocking? Bad motor mounts?
don't keep replacing stuff. Find out what's wrong.
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The ground strap looks tight and secure. I will remove clean and replace.
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Did you change the COIL?
The intermittent-ness that sorts itself out implies an electrical issue.
Have you checked your ground strap on the engine?
Engine to front subrframe.
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springs
The engine sorts itself out after just a few seconds (or less) of coasting.
or
Does it mean foot off the gas, in neutral or clutch in, and therefore rpms falling to idle speed quickly?
I do not have a quick solution, but clarification of the clue may be helpful to others
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I am not sure if i asked before but when you did the valve springs were any of the valves replaced and/or did you do it with the head in place ?
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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answering a few questions real quick.
It has new pertronix dizzy with flamethrower coil.
if i remember right i installed the 185lb .495 list springs
The engine sorts itself out after just a few seconds (or less) of coasting.
I have replaced all flex fuel lines and used some 1/4" copper line for the hard line. also have a clear filter right in front of the carb.
Malsal -I am going to try the valve clearance test after the failure asap. promise.
I am enquiring about dyno shops in town that are willing to look at the car.
thanks fellas!
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I typed out a loooong reply at work earlier on, hit Submit, and the updated firewall laughed at me...
So, here we go again.
Not worried by the smoke or the "death rattle". Smoke billows like that if you are stationary and have a minor exhaust leak or have been manhandling any part of the exhaust or manifold. The rattle is probably the timing gear objecting to the misfire.
What dizzy are you running, and does it still have points ?
When the misfire occurs, how long does it take to return to normal running at the stumbly low rpm ?
Does the engine recover its normalness faster if switched off ?
Have you done a compression test while it is misfiring ?
If not, run it till it stumbles, switch off and quickly test the compression - that would eliminate the valve seat dropping out theory.
Have you checked the hard fuel line for impact damage or replaced the flexi lines ?
It almost sounds like fuel starvation, but only when the engine is asking for more over a sustained period than can be supplied.
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Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch
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Think about the symptoms - they occur more or less consistently above a certain rpm. That pretty much rules out a slipping or loose timing chain or any of the linkage to the valves or dizzy. If the chain slipped,it would stay slipped. If it is slack, it would have the same negative effect (late valve timing) at all rpms. Similarly a worn cam would always be worn. A broken valve spring would stay broken, etc.
A weak valve spring would show up as valve float above a certain rpm - it feels like you suddenly lifted your right foot, but would settle down again once you got below the rpm range.
A sticking exhaust valve would probably stay open, producing valve rattle and likely continue to overheat and get even more stuck. But it would occur once the valve got hot enough, and not at a consistent rpm. You might be able to replicate this situation by causing the engine to get very hot without getting to that rpm - block off the rad or work the engine hard uphill etc., staying out of that rpm range.
I'm still thinking it is a fuelling problem and/or a timing advance problem.
MLM strap that rocker cover on with a bungy cord (for quick release) if you have to and drive it down the road until the problem/noise occurs then check the valve clearances.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.