Yes.

The 1275 ones are MLS, but the 998 ones are dead-soft copper.

I went and looked a GR's site for the first time in awhile. Very interesting things going on there. I have a few 998 cores and want to play as well. Having done the 940 on 998 I have plugged and redrilled a block to suit. Also did the 10 stud one bolt, on it as well. I may go ahead and machine all my blocks for exhaust valve reliefs just in case. Once the mill is set up it's not that bad with DRO. 

As for the solid copper head gaskets, I had a customer at the machine shop many years ago who drag raced a Hemi. All they used were solid copper head gaskets. I did the surface work on his blocks and cyl. heads. Copper gaskets work harden and can be reused by heating and quenching. I have found Cometic a good source for special gaskets. I will order a 998 solid copper one to try. Since the black ones weny NLA I have been a little concerned about what there is to use. Steve (CTR)

Are you sure that Cometic gaskets aren't MLS (multi layer steel)?

There are big restrictions/handicaps to using the Cometic gasket - it isn't an MLS so needs special care.

Have a look at GRs site and the multiple installments of the big-bore 1098 project.

A 940 with big valves really isn't the way to go at all, even if it does fit without pocketing the block.

NExt time you speak to MS, ask Simon about Justin's test drive.

The 3.76 or perhaps 3.65 is because the straight-cut box has a very tall first.  I would like to try the straight-cut because it's more efficient getting engine power to the wheels!  I'll see as the engine goes together.... and agree, the late wide ratio would be very street friendly with a 3.1, and the standard A+ ratio would be nice with a 3.44....  But, I am going for an angry weed-eater and feel lower gears enhance the Mini's strengths.

I have an un-molested 12G295 as well as several 1275 heads, and all the possible combinations of final drives and gear sets to build.  If Mini Spares sorts out their new Alloy heads, and they have standard valve spacing, I might try one of those.  If the big bore allows the 1275 head without notching the block, I think it would be worth making that work.

I did not know Cometic made a 998 head gasket! I'll have to look into that, as I don't like any of the "available" ones, since the demise of the Australian C-AEA647...

You can straight bore to +.100" (though I offset at that) but have to do the Vizard offset at 68mm.  GR recommends the use of a 1275 gasket, which requires waterways being blanked off and moved.  I'm going to try one of the Cometic 998 copper gaskets instead.  Using a 12G295 or opened up 202 instead of the 940 is a much better solution overall.

You won't need to go as low as 3.76 - I had a 3.2 in Betty, and it could easily have gone to 3.1 or even a 2.95 as long as you used an HLE gearset to help in first.
The MG cam sparkled at +.080", so I think I'll try a 270 in the 68mm.

Hey Alex, any off-set to the 68mm over bore?  I'm trying to use a standard valve 1275 head along with the Russel flat-tops (maybe keep them down in the bore about .040 rather than dishing with the smaller chamber head) and hoping to avoid notching the block for the exhaust valves!  GR says the A+ 998 has plenty of wall to go even bigger than 68mm!   I'm trying to build a "California small bore" that will do a convincing 1275 impersonation!  Have a straight-cut 5626 box with 3.76 final, so it will spin to go 75+ MPH, but should get there with authority!

My list of four are already in my posession, the MG worked amazingly well in the 998 but I'm thinking the 68mm bore will take a bit more cam.

Morning guys!

Alex I have an MG Metro cam for you too if you decide on that one

Maybe I don't know anything about this. Ten or more years ago I met a guy from South Africa here, or was it a guy from NZ who had a friend in SA. Either way they wanted Cooper S rods and were willing to trade a 1100 SA crank how ever I wanted it. Yes they are short stroke cranks with 2 inch mains and big journal rods. We restroked my crank with small rod journals and had it heat treated. I have an A+ block with four bolt center cap and a Cooper S thick flange block with all three steel caps four bolt center. 

What would it take to get those six inch rods Jemal? Are they new or used? Steve (CTR)

I've got an A+ block sat on the bench bored to 68mm and a set of pistons that GR dished for me ready to be built up and go into Betty.  Just need to decide on cam... RE83, Piper 270, Cooper 997 or MG Metro.

Considering the last 998 I built at +.080 was decent enough that the Mini Spares MD thought it was a 1275+, I have great hopes for this engine

The S.A. 1098 was built in the 2nd generation S.A. engine. It was not built in a small bore block, but in a large bore block. 70.64mm bore.

Yes, interesting!  I'm waiting for a set of the 68mm Russels to turn a 998 A+ into a short-stroke 1100.  We actually just got off the phone with Graham, and it seems after waiting most of last year, the big pistons are available again!  That's .135 inch over standard with a nice 3 inch stroke.  If using a 1098 block, I don't see how you get 1071 tho.... the 2.76 inch stoke mentioned needs a 2.78 inch bore to get to 1071... I don't think there's a 1/4 inch of metal to bore!


You know, we actually have THREE proper 1071 cranks... at least 2 of them are STD/STD!  A 1275 A or A+ block, some thrust washers, a set of the 6 inch Arrow connecting rods,  a set of 1380 pistons, and a calculator should be enough to figure out how to end up with about a 1200 cc with almost modern bore/stroke ratio!!



And yes, I suppose in California, a 1098 is still only a slightly angrier weed-eater!

I can hang no problem at all.

As for no demand for 1098s, that may be true in California but they are much prized here as an upgrade for a 998.  AC Dodd (and Graham Russell in Oz) in particular sing their praises, in fact, there is a whole range of new pistons for them.
The oil filter on a SA block does screw into the block in a similar position to a Marina or Ital (not sure about the Maestro as it was produced alongside the Metro and actually used a transverse block) but from memory it is a different casting.  it would be interesting to compare photographs of Chuck's SA 1275 and the Ital engine in my A30.

As Chuck says, the SA 1098 crank allows you to build a 1071 - something I'm thinking of putting underneath an Arden 8-port for use in the show Hornet.

So it is a unique big-bore short stroke that ends up around 1100! Wasn't there an Australian Cooper S based on a thick-wall 1098 also? The blocks that will accept a huge over-bore for some of the Russel pistons?   Do the short stroke cranks use the 1275 two-step primary gear?  2 inch mains?  And does the oil filter really screw directly into the block like the A+ "Maestro" or "ITAL" blocks?  I'll have to talk to Chuck...

Jemal, I'm not clued up on the chevys... but I do know that the 1098cc crank is favoured in the UK 
Stick "1098cc crank wanted" into a Google search and you'll see posts from guys dating from years back looking for these specific cranks.
Here in SA they're used in 1275 blocks... just with different bore.
Stroke is 70.2mm (I'm going according to info I've seen). Once I've removed the engine from my clubby I'll measure the exact stroke. Can't promise it'll be tomorrow, maybe over the weekend.
These are the first classic minis I'm stripping and I'm learning as I go along, so bear with me. Will not sell something until I am 150% sure it's EXACTLY what the buyer is needing.
Alex, I strongly suspect that the crank in the clubby is going to be in near perfect condition as opposed to the one in my garage which I'm de-rusting.
Are you in a tearing hurry? Would you be able to hang ten til next week?

Would a 1098 with a shorter stroke not have a little less grunt?
A little higher rev capability yes.....

Why were these used in SA 1098's ?

Thanks Chuck.

Inquiring minds want to know.... a short-stroke 1098?  Would it have a shorter stroke than most Chevy V8s of the 60s?  So a 998?  I don't know that there's ANY 'demand' for 1098s! No room for valves!

Hi guys!
Sorry for taking so long to respond... been a rough day at work..

I'm going to log on using the laptop later this eve.... replying on my phone and vatted is dying.
Alex I'll PM you when I'm online later