Advice needed on buying a 2007 Mini Cooper S
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Especially on an old thread.
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Try to find an unmodified sample with complete service history and always have a pre-purchase inspection performed by a shop familiar with MINIs. This will reduce the chance of finding a lemon, although there are no guarantees....
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.....makes me like the idea I have a real Mini.
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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OMG! I had no idea that the Gen2 MINIS had so many serious issues! They are making the Gen1 MINIS look like a walk in the park! I would go for a nice supercharged 2004-2006 MCS with low miles that has been well maintained. As affordable as they are now, definitely the most bang for your buck. Motor On! Mini Estate
Some new news
https://www.reddit.com/r/MINI/comments/40n5df/timing_chain_litigation_update_compensation/
'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)
Morristown, NJ
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OMG! I had no idea that the Gen2 MINIS had so many serious issues! They are making the Gen1 MINIS look like a walk in the park! I would go for a nice supercharged 2004-2006 MCS with low miles that has been well maintained. As affordable as they are now, definitely the most bang for your buck. Motor On! Mini Estate
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I'll add my two cents. I've owend a 2007 MCS, 2009 MCS and now a 2011 Clubman S.
2007 MCS: This one was a lease, but had the timing chain tensioner replaced. Turned it in to buy....
2009 MCS: Same thing, this one is still in the family (father bought it from me) and is up to 62k miles. So far no major failures. it has a leaking strut and had the clutch replaced at around 50k under the Maintenance Plan (thank the MINI gods).
2011 Clubman S: I bought this one used in 2013 w/ 20k miles. Again had the cluthc replaced at 24k miles covered under warranty. A few other small issues but nothing major since the warranty expires. Currently at 44k miles.
If you can stick to the later generation R5X to get the N18 engine you should. They make some changes that hopefully will fix the "sins" of its predecessor.
Now for the 2nd gen cars. NOTE: 2nd gen Convertible was released in 2009 in Cooper and Cooper S trim.
2007-2010 R56 and R57 Cooper = N12 (n12b16) Non Turbo
2007-2010 R56S and R57S Cooper S = N14 (n14b16) Turbo
2008-2010 R55 Clubman = N12 (n12b16) Non Turbo
2008-2010 R55S Clubman S = N14 (n14b16) Turbo
Engine change for 2011.
2011 + R56 and R57 Cooper = N16 (n16b16) Non Turbo
2011 + R56S and R57S Cooper S = N18 (n18b16) Turbo
2011 + R55 Clubman = N16 (n16b16) Non Turbo
2011 + R55S Clubman S = N18 (n18b16) Turbo
2011 + R60 Countryman = N16 (n16b16) Non Turbo
2011 + R60S Countryman S = N18 (n18b16) Turbo
2011 + R60S Countryman S ALL4 = N18 (n18b16) Turbo
//new.minimania.com/MINI_model_designations
//www.bluegrassminis.com/showthread.php?1918-Mini-Cooper-Engine-codes
'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)
Morristown, NJ
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I had my 2010 Clubman S built to specs new, just the way I wanted it. I'd seen the horror stories on the sites, but said "it won't happen to me." I was maniacal about the maintenance schedules. I won't claim I drove the car gently, because it was just too much fun to drive it hard. I drove the Dragon the day I picked it up from the dealership. I loved the car, so much fun.
At 70K miles, the car fell apart. I spent $4K (deferring another $2K in recommended repairs) getting it into good enough shape to trade in.
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unless you have a big wallet, don't
I just got rid of my 2007 cooper S, expect 2-3K a year in repairs,
in about 60K i had the following:
two timing chains, three tensioners, intake manifold, auxillary water pump, oil feed line to turbo, both front seat cloth tore apart,
would not run idle cold below 32F, clutch was going, two sets of brake, two sets of tires, sunroof did not open when ity was hot, radio display disappeared above 70F, it would back fire / miss if I went into a high boost condition and it started to burn oil
stay away from dealers, it came out with more problems than it went it with most itmes, only one in the area that would touch it
loved the car just couldn't afford the maintainance
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One potential recurring issue on 'some' early Gen2 Minis is the 'cold start rattle' problem. I would recommend you try starting the car 'cold' to make sure it is not rattling. The correct way to ensure this is not a problem is to have the timing chain measured for 'stretch' to confirm it is within spec.
As for other recommendations - check the service history if available (look for frequent oil changes) and have a PPI done (as you plan to do).
Have the computer read for any 'recorded' error codes.
Good luck!
Ken
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07s have 3 problems I am aware of.
1) Thermostat housing gasket failure
2) Door lock failures
3) Door seals failure allowing water ingress
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it. G.B.S. Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit. Oscar Wilde
//www.cupcakecooper.ca/
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Hello,
There is 2007 MINI Cooper S with 35k miles for sale that I am really interested in. I was wondering if you guys could give me some advice on whether it is worth purchasing such a old model even though it has low milage. Are there certain things that I should be looking out for, concerns with this for year or in general?
Here are the specs:
2007 Mini S
6 Speed Manual Transmission
35,229 miles
Cold weather package
Convenience Package
Leather interior
Sunroof
Bluetooth
Navigation
The site that it is listed on says: Car has recently passed 200-point mechanical inspection. Recent repairs: new serpentine belt, new wiper blades.
Here is the CARFAX Report: goo.gl/rJg8mQ
If all goes well with the test drive I plan to take it to a mechanic to have them look into condition of the tires, clutch, transmission, engine, catalytic converter, and the air conditioning.
Does anyone know the like lifespan of most catalytic converters?
Thank you in advance for all of your help!