thanks for your help in this question! check some pros and cons of working at home here //livecustomwriting.com/blog/remote-job-pros-and-cons-of-working-from-home

If using the rule of 9 to adjust tappets you don't need to be hyper accurate about getting the valve perfectly open to adjust the other just close is good enough. The valve is on the back of the cam far longer than the lift so there's plenty of wiggle room

I agree.. hit 'n miss. But a bit easier if the spark plugs are out and no compression to buffer against your intentions.
Me? I just roll the car forward in gear while pulling on the slam panel. If I go too far, I push back - after all I'm only trying to turn the cam and chain slack and timing is not an issue.

thanks for explaining how to remote a start button! //skywritingservice.com/blog/need-remote-work-first-check-all-pros-and-cons will show all the pros and cons of working at home!

How do you get it to stop exactly on the nose of the desired cam lobe ?
I've tried it this way in the past and it's more than a bit hit-n-miss.

all i can say is... the best things in life are free!!!  i still like cupcake's style!!  

and i can tell by his profile picture that he's a very seasoned mechanic..

Try this instead of messing about with removing plugs, rolling cars or jacking up cars and turning wheels. Leave plugs in. Use remote starter.

To paraphrase what others have said above...

One lead from your remote starter switch goes to the solenoid terminal with all the brown wires attached.  The other switch terminal goes on the spade lug where the white/red wire is on the solenoid.

The brown wires are permanently "hot" (+12V).  The white/red wire terminal is the one that gets power when you turn the ignition key to the "start" position.  Your remote switch is intended to duplicate the start position on the ignition switch.

 

I was able to turn the motor over with my Quaife LSD with trans in 4th gear.

wow its really good to have forums like this,  i didnt know  removing the plugs and lifting one wheel can do the job too in rotating the camshaft, clever, thanks for the idea cupcake.  

im learning a lot thanks

One of the remote trigger leads goes to the battery feed (the opposite side of the solenoid to the wire that goes to the starter) and the other lead goes on the small spade terminal withe white/red wire on it.

Much easier to put the car in 4th gear, jack one front wheel off the ground and just turn the engine over using a roadwheel.

That question about the differential is a good one. I don't actually know the answer. Maybe a clutch type one will work, maybe a Torsten style one will work. I do know that you can do the job quickly and easily in the manner I previously described.

The remote starter switch that you don't need can be made to work by clipping one clip to the main +12V post of the solenoid, the one that comes from the battery. The other clip goes to where the wire from the ignition switch is fitted.  

So... the two button leads go where? 

[edit]

Thanks guys—I forgot all about rollin' the car. Cup: Will I be able to turn over the motor by lifting a wheel with a LS diff?

Remove the plugs. Lift up one front wheel. Put in high gear as Mur says. Turn the lifted wheel by hand. Your eye level will be in line with the valves to see when the valve "rocks" or use a dial indicator.

White with a red tracer triggers the solenoid.

more importantly, if you place the car in a tall gear like third or fourth and roll it slightly you can go through the valve adjustment process quickly on all eight valves. This will be faster than trying to turn the engine over with the starter, which will be frustratingly inaccurate.

After a proper 500 “break-in” miles on Rosebud’s fresh motor, I’m changing out the break-in oil & filter, re-torquing the head and adjusting the valves. 

I’m doing the valves now and I’m finding it impossible to turn the motor over by hand without removing the radiator (again!). So I bought a remote starter button but can’t figure out where to connect the button’s 2 lead wires. I know one wire goes to the starter solenoid (+), but after that it gets a little fuzzy. Hayne’s is not much help as I know very little about reading schematics. I found a MM thread about starter buttons but I still don't get it.

I’m reluctant to make an educated guess as I have inexplicably fried one perfectly good wiring harness already! Here’s a pic of the solenoid terminals. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!